I'm taking a road trip to NE this weekend to check out a 1960 Ford wagon, the full size variety, I think it is a Country Sedan. This will be my first wagon and my first classic car since high school, I won't tell you how many years ago that was I would consider myself mechanically inclined, I'm comfortable checking the car out and evaluating the various pieces and parts that are supposed to get things done. Where I'm lacking is a knowledge of this particular model. Where are the trouble spots for rust? Any particular parts that I should make sure are there (such as stuff that will be difficult and/or expensive to find replacements for). Any other stuff I should be aware of when evaluating this car? This car was a lead from a friend, I do not have pictures. The owner says it has been sitting in his barn for about 30 years, claims it is all there, no rust, very straight body, good glass, bad interior. Ran good when he parked it. He says the motor is a 390, I thought the biggest for this year was a 352? I have never owned a classic Ford (mostly a Chevy guy in my muscle car years), how do I identify a 352 vs a 390? Thanks!
i have a 59 ford wagon and here is what i found .anything specific to the wagon will be a beast to find . a 390 is an fe motor 352 is a y block easy to tell the difference look at the valve cover area ,if the lip for the valve cover is part of the intake its a 390 or fe series motor , if not you have a y-block. floors and chassis braces were all rotted on mine .weatherstripping for wagon areas can be tough to find.
Beef, I wish I could help you out in this department! My knowledge is pretty limited to the dodge/plymouth arena. From my experience so far just about everything for the wagons, body/body trim wise is hard to find. So hopefully, all the body trim is there. As far as rust, make sure to check the rear comparment area especially if there is a storage bin or spare tire well, then tend to hold water very well if a seal failed during its lifetime. As a general rule of thumb what looks good from the top/outside may not be as pretty from the bottom/inside so make sure you crawl all around it. Check out the floors from underneath...wreck damage can be spotted on the inside of the panel...etc... If it has been sitting for 30 years the entire brake system may have frozen up on it, so you may even want to see if it will even roll (its not THAT big of a deal, but it makes it a pain trying to move the car and get it on a trailer, much less replaceing the brake system.) Bring some tools and see if you can get the motor to turn over at all (you may not care if you are putting in a new engine...but if it is seized might help lower the asking price) I apologize if this isnt much help...like I said earlier, i dont know much about Fords
In my opinion, even if it's kinda rough, it might be worth it anyway. The '60 big Ford is so cool in it's styling. Keep in mind that some of the body stuff is one-year-only -- not interchangable with earlier or later years. The body trouble spots are usually going to be the same on any older car - rocker panels, floors, quarter panel dogleg areas, top of quarters right below the side glass, etc. Pull up what's left of the carpets to check the floors underneath.
Any 1960 big Ford looks Kool. If it's cheap enough and still not all there it can be made into a nice Kustom. Good luck.
Back when I was a wee lad (read my profile) my mother had a 60. In 1968 or 69, she was rear ended at relatively low speed by a tow truck and the car was crushed. Recently, my brother, who was old enough to remember the details, disclosed more about the story. He said it was rust that caused the car to be so compromised. Frame, rear tub and quarters tho it hardly showed. I do recall seeing some of it appearing under the stainless panels tho. Hemmings Classic Car #24 (Sept. 2006) featured a beautifully restored one in their buyer's guide. Why here it is, right here,... what do they say about them?
Tell ya what, I'll scan the details if you can't find the info at their web sight. I'll have time later in the week, maybe I'll type on. What part of Nebraska is it in (if you don't like it, maybe I will????) Not all counties allow salt on the highways so there are some very good, relatively rust free finds out there. (esp. out west) A couple 223 straight 6s and a few different 352 V-8 were the only choices. The top dog was the high compression 352 w/4bbl, 300hp Interceptor Special. Sounds cool, must be what Sheriff Andy had in his squad car... Man do I love those big Fords....
This site may help, although it's for Mercurys: http://www.mercurystuff.com/#1960 I'd pull the valve covers. If it's been sitting for more than a year, chances are you're going to need to do some house-cleaning. Fuel has probably turned to shelac in carb., oil could be jelly... Also, everything that holds fluid, gas tank, puke tank, radiator, brakes, are probably toast. My Commuter sat for 5 years, purchased from the original owner with 70k miles, and all of the above was the case. Not to discourage you, but know what you're getting yourself in for. My wagon is 100% rust-free, was all original, 1-owner, no signs of abuse, and in 1-year the mechanical bills totalled over $22k! Not including my time. Give me a shout if you're coming near Boston. You can check out our Rod Shop in Natick.
Always thought 272, 292, 312's were Y blocks and 332, 352, 360 (truck), 390, 406, 427, and 428 were all FE's. http://www.mercurystuff.com/fe-engine-specs.html
yes you guys are right about the 352 but i believe that the 60s could have come with a y block a windsor or an fe
The 60 could have a 292. I think the last year for the 292 was '62. Not sure what the small V8 was for '63, but '64 was a 289.
a 352 and a 390 are difficult to tell the diff at the best of times!!! you literally have to pull a plug and measure the stroke....well...thats the easiest way nope...no Y or W....mind ya...back then you could actually ORDER cars...so anythings possible...but doubtful the small one was a 260...but they werent offered till 62 ....anyhoo....look at all the body mounts...they rusted!!! especially the rear ones,,,they will start to come thru the rear deck
Well, wish me luck in checking it out! I will let everybody know how it goes. If the body, trim, frame and glass are good I think I will buy it. The motor is not too much of a concern, I think I will put something modern and fuel injected under the hood, also a 4spd auto. Probably Chevy power but I will just have to see what opportunities present themselves. I have found a couple of articles on disc brake and modern power booster/master cylinder swaps, and few other cool ideas. If all goes well - let the fun (and the draining of my bank account) begin!
