The babbitt metal will destroy a caustic soda solution (ask me how I know this), and so will be removed before tanking the block, but if they have a non-caustic hot process, the cam bearings will be left in. BUT, they then should be measured for clearance, along with the cam journals, before reassembly. As for the heads, how old are the heads? If they're mid-'70s or older, I'm sure they could be milled to bring CR back up to where it was before. And Viton seals for the stems are great.
I always have new cam bearings installed when a block goes in for cleaning and/or machining. It's cheap and there's no better time to do it.
Yes the 360 heads have thick decks but the cam I am running will not work with the bigger 360 valves. I chose a Summit cam for RV/towing with specs similar to a factory 340 car. We took apart the 318 heads tonight. Lots of carbon and oil in the bowls. Valves are toast and I ordered a standard run of the mill 318 valves. We decided to stick with the original 318 heads. With some massaging they will work just fine in a heavy wagon with a standard transmission. With the Edelbrock intake and Headman headers,the name of the game is efficiency. I use the Waygun for hauling schtuff and do drive it a lot during summer months including some big road trips. I am not building a muscle car,just a good reliable vehicle that will gain 50ftlbs of torque and maybe 25-30 horses.
If you're sticking with the original heads, that should bring you less problems to deal with, but you can still have great low and middle range torque with the 360 heads, by using an intake and exhaust manifold that are designed for that. The bigger valves would just ensure the engine didn't endure interference from airflow restriction into and out of the cylinders. My Ranchero's 351W cylinder heads have 1.94/1.50(?)" valves (from a van) and large combustion chambers, but don't suffer detonation or a lack of torque under load. If I had been able to afford the machining, I would've brought up the CR and popped in a semi-performer roller cam, in anticipation of my plans to do an SEFI conversion. Now, when I do go to do it, that work will have to be done before the install.
Made more progress today.. Heads got stripped and cleaned. Crankshaft also cleaned and polished. Waiting on parts at this point
I turned my attention to the engine bay. 46 years ago this wagon got the Ziebart treatment even though she had seen very few winter drives. With a jug of parts washer fluid,nylon brushes and lots of rags the undercoating came off revealing the beautiful JY9 Tahitian bronze metallic paint. First pic is the before passenger side for comparison.Second pic is the driver's side...
On areas that are thick coated I use a brass brush lightly to break it up and use more solvent and let it soak longer. I finish with nylon brush with no pressure to avoid scratching the original paint. HELLO Fender tag!!
Sooo tempted to empty out the engine bay and go nuts. I know the results will make a huge difference when I pop the hood. Flywheel is sent in for machining. Stay tuned!
For fellow gumbers crunchers..here's what the tag reads.. E44 318-2 Barrel D14 3-Speed Manual Column Shift RH45 R = Plymouth Belvedere/Satellite H = High 45 = 6 Passenger Wagon G3R G = 318 150HP(net) or 170HP(net) 1-2BBL 8 CYL 3 = 1973 R = Windsor, ONT, CAN 367878 Sequence Number '367878' JY9 Paint Code: Unknown At This Time F2Y4 Trim Grade/Style/Color F = F Class 2 = Vinyl Bench Y4 = Gold JY6 Upper Door Frame: Unknown At This Time 705 Date Built: 7 / 05 / 1973 BO1872 Order Number: BO1872 JY9 Roof Type OR Color: Unknown At This Time C Built For Canada Specs 22 Radiator Diameter 22" WIDTH B41 Front Disc Brakes Some Yrs. Power F18 65 Amp Heavy Duty Alternator H41 Heated w/ Upper Vent J67 Hevay Duty Wiring Harness J83 Roof Air Deflector M21 Roof Drip Rail Moldings M26 Wheel Lip Molding M33 Body Side Moldings M83 Rear Bumper Guards M91 Luggage Rack Deck Lid END End of Codes