i don t find engine problem in the forum hi guys i have a tree error code 1986 caprice w 307 21 tps 34 map 45 lambda i dont have a tps now but i change a map sensor and i have the 3 error too how clear the ecu? i pull the two connection or only with code reader? the 45 code i think is only for 21 code and 34 code the lambda is new 8000 km but is bosch usa thanks guys one big greeting from italy
Hello, Are you saying that you installed a carburetor without a TPS on it or just unplugged it? Either way if you do not have a functioning TPS you will always get a code for it since the computer is looking for an signal from it. When it sees something out of its normal range or nothing at all it will throw a code. The 45 rich condition code could be from the MAP or it could be an adjustment on the carburetor (assuming you can make any adjustments on the carburetor you have). In other words your car might just be running rich and the oxygen sensor is sensing this. Does the MAP sensor mount directly to the intake manifold or does it have vacuum hoses routed to it to get it its signal? If it has hoses going to it it is very possible that the hoses are cracked and causing a bad reading. I would probably go through and replace all of the vacuum hoses in the engine compartment since after almost 30 years there are surely quite a few that have dried out and cracked.
307 4bbl ecm4 rochester i think the tps is this http://quadrajetparts.com/rochester...ttle-position-sensor-1980-thru-1990-p-54.html the map is in the right fender the hose rilsan is ok i clear ecu i pull out wiring of ecu for one hour and clear it now have only a 45 code tomorow see the exhaust gas and have a lambda ac delco new for fit thanks when resolve the problem i write
Hi i change first the simply items lambda and map sensor But the engine light is open too in random Ok guys i change the tps and all is normal thanks to all In the total for first time i work in two hours All is simple but need more attention for the gasket is dificoult put in Thanks ivano
ohh nooo today open the light again only for few seconds code is 21 and 34 exhaust gas (co) is 3,5 without catalysator is more too? lambda is 1450 hc 388 yesterday have a drive perfect for 320km you have an idea?
First you have to adjust the tps, there is a procedure and a special tool and you set it with a meter. Its .52 volts at idle I think. If you adjust the idle speed it changes the TPS so you have to readjust is if you change the idle. Also be sure the vacuum idle adjuster isnt touching the throttle, that can change the base idle setting. That TPS adjustment is very important. If its off the ecu changes the dwell for the mixture control when it shouldn't. There is an idle, part throttle and wide open throttle dwell map in the ECU. So 1st properly adjust the TPS Verify all the vacuum lines are hooked up properly!!! Verify the Coolant temp sensor is working properly and the connector isnt broken or corroded. Check the ignition timing properly with putting it into check timing mode and setting to 20BTDC, or what ever the sticker says under the hood (i think all 3C 307's were 20BTDC) Next is the air injection system. It should pump air into the manifolds when cold and down to the cat converter when hot. Bringing the rpm up can change where the air goes via the TPS, when warm it should never pump air into the manifolds, that will mess with the O2 readings and screw everything up. When you let off the throttle and sometimes holding an RPM it will cause also cause it to bypass into the air cleaner and not pump anywhere. This is normal to prevent backfiring. After that there is a procedure to set the mixture control needle stops, depending on the year it may have an upper and lower stop, or just one. Its been so long since ive set one up so I cant tell you the procedure, but there are special tools to properly set the rich and lean stop for the mixture control needles. Once thats set you adjust the idle air bleed, its the big screw thing by the air cleaner stud in the top of the carburetor. Again, there is a procedure, and depending on what air bleed is in there there is a different procedure for both. Then the idle mixture is adjusted with the screws in the bottom of the carb, you have to have a dwell meter hooked up and the engine good and warm to do it right, you set it so the dwell in 6cyl mode swings between certain numbers. And then at 2500rpm same thing, it should swing between certain numbers. If it doesnt and everything else is verified good then you can adjust the mixture control rich and lean stops evenly to make the total mixture richer or leaner. Some of these ecu/carbs run lower dwell some run higher dwell, depends on the year and the market it was sold in. It needs to be done in this order!! If you dont youll be chasing your tail. The systems work and work well when they are set up properly and they are reliable. But unless you dial them in properly in the proper order youll never get anything to work right. One other tip about the 307, the EGR valve. Some of them will ping real bad if its disconnected, so just leave it there. Good luck. Best thing to do is get a book and study how the systems works, that will give you the best understanding on how to make it work properly again
thanks for your response now i have only 21 code tps i think is the regulation is wrong i have a chilton manual caprice impala full size but i don t have a section tps regulation the tps is regulation with idle speed? at 0.52v ? or have other for regulation' thanks to all
Code21 is for TPS high or open circuit. You need to check to be sure you have 5v, and ground at the connector. After you verify that you need to be sure the signal wire back to the ECU is good. You can ohm the wire out to see if it's broken some where. Or back probe at the TPS to see if you have voltage changing with the throttle, if you do you can also back probe the ecu connector to see if you have the same voltage there. It should be pretty basic to find the issue. The ecu were very simplistic in setting codes, it pretty much would detect an open or short, and code 21 is for an open. It's not for TPS regulation as you describe it...the computer isn't smart enough to know if the TPS is out of adjustment or only putting out half the voltage it should. It only know if the TPS is plugged in or not really You have to look up the spec for your model year, there were different voltages to set the TPS at for different years.
The mid to late 70's Olds 350 used in some Cadillac models got a primitive form of fuel injection. GM had no motivation to install fuel injection on the 307. They knew it would be done after 1990 and the carburetor worked fine for what it was. Same reason Ford kept the carbureted 351 in Crown Vics through '91.
Yeah and there would be no point to EFI on the 307 being such an anemic beast. If your gonna go EFI you could go Chevy truck 350 tdi, but really where it's at now are the LSx engines. I put an LQ4 or a 6.0 from an 03 Silverado in my custom cruiser with the 4l80e. Why anyone would mess with anything else I don't know. All the power in the world any time you need it. It makes the car way more fun and responsive...never worry about not having enough power to pass someone uphill even or get on the freeway. The swap was near bolt in, wiring isn't bad if you get a plug and play harness, retain total stock A/C and compressor if you want, cruise control, even the gas pedal if your creative. No one would ever know what's under the hood of my wagon
