I realized after getting half the parts bolted back onto the water pump, that, shoot, I'd forgotten about the thermostat, and I really needed to remove the pump again to get to it. Naturally, in pulling it off again the paper gasket just tore in half, silicone still stuck to both sides. I don't think there should be a problem if I squirt silicone liberally in between, never missing a spot, and bolt it back up again. But please let me know if it will be... bolting it back up shortly :-(
If I was in a jam I would re-use it, and expect to fix another leak later. I don't know what type of sealant you used, but it may hold up OK. What did you use? Is this on a volvo engine?
I ran out of the teeny tiny tube the salesman at the parts store sold me, and so I ended up using outdoor caulking, "100% silicone." I was wondering, too, but it was 8pm, I had no car to get to the auto parts store, and when I called salvo he told me it would work. Hopefully it will? Once I get this blasted fan on (whoever thought it would be clever to make you have to align 3 sets of holes while working in a tight, dark pit of a space??), I'll be able to fill up the coolant and turn on the engine! Errm, and I have one extra bolt at the end of this job, too :-( Same size as some of the bolts that hold on the tensioner bracket for the passenger side drive belt, but I've run out of bolt holes to put it through. Everything seems solid, though.
I looked at the bathtub caulking too, but it said "siliconized latex" what the hell? If it's latex, it's latex!
In the past, in a pinch, I've used a cereal box for the necessary gasket material. I can't tell you about the silicone you are using - I've never used anything but the designated engine sealant silicone.
Latex is a milk byproduct, believe it or not, Search for Milk Paint on the internet. Cheapest, longest lasting paint you can drink. Most red barns that were built 150 years ago were painted with milk paint and cow's blood. Use Permatex Gasket sealant - orange or blue. Works great! Me too! Good old Tony the tiger kept my gas in the carb and rad, many a time.
Not exactly on topic with the original post, but... A trick that an old-timer showed me is to use the Permatex silicone on the part side, and Permatex Indian Head shellac on the block side. When it is time to replace the part, the shellac breaks free and the entire gasket comes off with the part and leaves minimal clean-up on the block.
The Fox is correct Some times you just have to bite the bullet, if you don't do it correct now, you will be doing it again....and as Murfeys Law will have it, the repaired gasket will fail at the worst possible moment.
If the torn gasket has coolant on it the silicone won't have a good bond, perhaps it will hold but I'd plan on a proper replacement. Likewise, the cereal box gasket won't last as water will eventually seep through but is a great temporary fix. "siliconized" latex isn't the same as 100% silicone and will fail. The 100% silicone "caulk" has worked fine for me for the past 30 odd years. Buy a good brand, GE.
