Timing questions

Discussion in 'General Automotive Tech' started by Paladin62, Feb 21, 2019.

  1. Paladin62

    Paladin62 Well-Known Member

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    Okay, my wagon has a 327 in it according to the guy I bought it from. But it looks like a 350 to me. Problem is, the engine numbers have been filed off the block. So I can't tell what it is. He says it has a cam in it. I tried to set the timing but I'm having issues. Right now its at about 12 degrees. Runs good, starts fine, shuts off well as long as you run premium. Any advice on setting the timing so that it's accurate?
     
  2. Poison_Ivy

    Poison_Ivy Dogzilla Fan

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    As long as you're setting it with the vacuum advance line disconnected, there should be no issues, unless the distributor is mounted incorrectly or the centrifugal advance springs improper or weak.
    You don't need to pull the heads, to see if it's a 327 or not. The only difference between that and a 350 is the stroke. You could measure that, through inserting a cable tie through the sparkplug hole
     
  3. Paladin62

    Paladin62 Well-Known Member

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    I know the part about the vacuum hose...I don't know what cam is in it or which block it is. BTW it has Vortec heads on it. That's the challenge when you buy something that's modified.
     
  4. Poison_Ivy

    Poison_Ivy Dogzilla Fan

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    What I meant was the gear on the cam lining up with that of the distributor. You might be one tooth off. Even then, it shouldn't affect timing. The distributor will, in that case, just be pointing in another direction. Dwell will also affect timing. I'd get a dwell meter and see if it's within range, unless you're running electronic ignition
     
  5. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    There's also the possibility of the dizzy having been installed 180* out, but it would run horribly (if at all) and have a lot of raw gas in the exhaust.
    To verify #1 at TDC on the compression stroke requires the driver's valve cover and #1 plug removed, then put your thumb over the plug hole so that the compression pushes it out as you manually bar the engine over. Once you find the compression stroke, check to make sure both valves are completely shut, then you can verify if the rotor is pointing at #1, if it's off a tooth, or if it's 180* out by pointing at #6.
     
  6. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    There can also be a problem with the timing chain and gears, but do the distributor checks first.
     
  7. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Head of the line bump.
     
  8. HotRodRacer

    HotRodRacer Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    I may be telling you something you already know, and if I am just skip over it. But once you perform the steps above that Twink detailed, verify your timing mark on your harmonic balancer actually lines up to TDC on the timing pointer. I had a SBC one time that used a different timing cover than what should have been on it, it should have read from the top instead of the drivers side. Just something to check, although this also would make it run like crap.
     
  9. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Oh, yeah, I plum forgot about that...I think the '80s trucks are under the water pump instead of beside it. The dampers are swappable, so if in doubt, get one that matches the cover. That'll put your timing marks where they belong.
     
  10. Paladin62

    Paladin62 Well-Known Member

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    I'm in Houston and we are in the middle of the rainy season. When we get a sunny day I'll check to see if the rotor is pointing at #1 when the piston is at the top and the mark on the harmonic balancer is at TDC.
    That will tell me if the distributor is a tooth off or not, but without knowing what cam is in it I still won't know the optimum setting...
     
  11. Poison_Ivy

    Poison_Ivy Dogzilla Fan

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    The only thing the camshaftz has do do with anything is if it's one tooth off. Otherwise, irrelavent for your timing setting. If it was a tooth off, the timing marks would still line up. But, your engine would run funny (if at all), because the valve timing would be off. What you instead want to confirm is what Twink mentioned about the balancer not matching up with the timing cover. In other words, when both are mismatching, you won't be able to find top dead center, without doing further tearing down
     
  12. Paladin62

    Paladin62 Well-Known Member

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    The thing is, the engine runs fine right where it is. I'm just not sure it's perfect. I was told it's a 68 Camaro 327. No info on the cam, but you can hear a slight lope. I have a 327 in my 62 Vette, (look in the "Garage") I'll compare the stroke using Poison Ivy's suggestion. Engine.jpg
     
  13. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Only the block could be 327, let alone 307 or others. But the heads definitely are newer Vortec heads. Do you think you could shinny under, remove the inspection cover, and look at the crank end that the flexplate/flywheel bolts to? This would at least tell you if the short block is a Vortec also, as the end is machined round for a 1-piece rear main, with an outer cover it fits into. An older crank is oblong, as if the end is cast with a flyweight.

    [​IMG]
     

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  14. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    The other thing is the provision for the oil tube on the engine's front; the earlier blocks ('66 and before?) had it as part of the front block rail, but the later ones ('67 and up?) did not. Plus, there are commonalities between the 283 and 327. Confusing stuff, to say the least.
     
  15. Paladin62

    Paladin62 Well-Known Member

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    Wow, you learn something every day...
    It's freezing here now. When the temp hits 70 and sunny, I'll shimmy under there and see what I have. Thanks a bunch.
     

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