My '63 CS was misfiring under load. Checked the plugs, even color and burn, gap right. Timing is set right. New plug wires. Cap and rotor look good, no arcing in the cap or pinholes in the rotor. Changed the inline fuel filter, no help. Decided to change the fuel pump since it is the next cheapest option. It worked. Initially. Might still work, but sometime during the swap, a piece of ... sh!t... decided to make its way into the needle/seat of the carb. Now it bleeds fuel from the tube in the choke horn from the bowl, flooding the motor. Normally not a big deal for a 4150 or 4500 style Holley carb, but this is a 4160, with no externally adjustable float level/seats, vacuum secondary with a transfer tube between the front bowl and back. Sh!t, just sh!t, gotta take the front bowl off to get the needle/seat cleaned out. I'll bet a dollar to a doughnut that I'll tear the bowl gasket and have to replace it, along with the stinking rubber grommet that goes around the transfer tube. Sh!t, just sh!t.
If you do, suggestions for reassembly: spray the bowl and plate gaskets with Pam, believe it or not, and silicone grease (such as Dr. Tranny blue lube) on the o-ring. Too bad the bowl doesn't have an adjuster, but I had thought the newer models of 4160s have float adjusters, as well as provision for buying aftermarket level sight 'windows' for fuel level? I would think that would be a worthwhile upgrade.
I have never seen a 4160 without adjustable floats. Apparently they make them now. Aside from fuel spilling everywhere what is the hard part about taking the front bowl off?
The newer models may, but mine is a older dash-7 model. Not hard to take the bowl off, remove the lower left screw and rain the fuel. The sh!tty part is that I have to do it at all, and what I said about getting new gaskets, o-ring, etc. On thing always leads to another.
Yeah. Never seen one of those. Might as well just pull the carb and do the work on a bench rather than spilling gas all over the engine. The front needle and seat sometimes sticks on our '67 Chevy that runs a 4160 after sitting for a while. Could be worse.
I think, that since you have to do this anyway, find the parts you need, make the upgrade. As long as the parts you buy are viable, I think you'll have a better car for it.
Pulled the carb yesterday and the fuel bowl on the bench. Cleaned the filter, the needle and seat, and the crud that had decided to gather for a party from the bottom of the bowl, too. Sprayed the gasket with PAM (good idea, Twink) and re-assembled and re-installed. That fixed the sticking problem, at least for now. Oh, and I was told by the old guy at the local parts store (not the franchise ones) that this is a factory Ford 600 cfm carb. EVen though it's technically a 4160, the factory Ford carbs don't have sight level screws or externally adjustable floats, they were preset from the factory. I can't confirm it, but it makes sense. I'd think if it was a factory Ford part, I would see a CZ or DZ number on it somewhere, but who knows.
Ford carb number info is always on a tag, attached by a screw. My guess is that it was rebuilt at one time, but the rebuilder didn't put the tag back on. The claim that it's a Motorcraft Holley is made doubtful by the "HOLLEY" trademark cast into the bowl, as the Motorcraft ones had "MOTORCRAFT BY HOLLEY" cast into the bowl.
The Motorcraft name is a fairly late trademark and I don't think it was around in '63. Everything was FoMoCo back then. They did indeed have a carb tag on them. My '57 Victoria had a Holley on it from the factory, as did a '63 Merc Marauder that my uncle owned.
True, but before the Motorcraft name, it was Autolite. And that carb of his is definitely not branded Autolite. Plus, if you look at the Holley logo on the fuel bowl, it's the more current version of that logo, so it's a newer manufacture carb anyway. Could possibly be a replacement for a factory Motorcraft carb, but who knows?
Not that it matters, but the list number and any other numbers off of the air horn would go a long way in identifying the origins of the carb.
Yeah, they are in the pic but since it was resized you can't see them. 80457-7 is the first line, 0439 is the second line off choke tower. I didn't find any other numbers on the carb while I was cleaning/replacing the gaskets.
Those should be crossable by Holley; I thought you were referring to the Ford numbers, which are always on a separate tag.
Check this thread: https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/...9-difference-between-holley-1850-80457-a.html
