I don't have pictures, YET! So, I'll go through what I did. First of all, I have to describe the state of the molding. The car is from Mexico, where finishes fade, dry, crack up and react quickly to any chemicals that get dropped on them. BUT, inland cars don't rust, aluminum doesn't corrode, just like southern central US states (Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada, Texas). Then, like most 28 year old cars, the molding did have a few dings, and one piece (Passenger rear quarter wheel well molding) was really crushed. I used to do copper art (stylus, wax, etc.), on thin copper sheet, but this stamped aluminum is much thicker. Still many of the same techniques can be used to get the dings out. I used the handles from old kitchen butter knives, and the round head on my small ball-pean hammers. I even restored the crushed piece. You can't bend and re-bend this stuff. Before I did the hammering/smoothing, I soaked all the pieces in the bath tub with warm soapy (liquid laundry soap) and scrubbed off all 28 years of road dust, tar and muck. I used regular Paint Stripper (Lepage's Super Stripper - 2 quarts). You need 2 boxes (50 per box) of rubber gloves, an old finger nail brush, and good, but not sharp, paint scraper (1 inch wide). And about 2 floor pails of warm water. Do it outside in the shade and out of the wind. It takes a good thick brush load spread on it. Let it sit for a few minutes and start gently squeegeeing it off with the scraper. Don't dig into the finish! Do it again and again until you get it all off, and rinse it right away. That Stripper is acidic and can eat into the metal. Don't do more pieces than you can clean off within the Stripper's drying time (about 10 minutes MAX). It gets very hard. Then use whatever you've got to smooth out the dints. The crushed piece needed the curved raised lines redefined, I had to use a wide blade flat screw driver and the small hammer (almost like a shoemaker's hammer, but a nail-setting cabinetmaker's hammer would do) and 'punch' the line back out. It won't be perfect, but the new finish graining will hide it. If you can't get parts right away, the 1/2 hour it takes for a really damaged piece is a cheap solution. Start with small dents to get the feel of it, then take on the tougher ones. Wash the pieces AGAIN in the tub, soaking out and scrubbing out whatever is left. Use a sharp pocket knife and scrape off any tiny chips or muck that you find inside and out. Mine had a factory clear coat on the inside (maybe overspray, but I think it was sealer). It didn't react to the Stripper, but it was flaky enough to scrap off. Then gently hand-sand off (220 or 280 grit) any sharp dings or edges, so that the paint doesn't chip later. Now, here's the key to getting a good finish. You have to use a DIY-friendly Aluminum Etch. POR-15 make one called Metal Ready. You brush it on really wet (use rubber gloves to keep you natural oils off the metal) I bought one quart and had more than half left over. I've soaked all the molding-clips with the rest and still have almost half left. They came out like new! After 10-15 minutes, you pour the excess back into your container (I used a cottage cheese tub) and wash the piece off, AGAIN. Leave it for 24 hours, then spray on your base coat (the background color) - 2 coats. I used Krylon's Fusion Plastic paint (Satin finish - Almond) to match the Fairmont's original color. Then leave them for the 7 days recommended by Krylon. Here's a friend's method for synthetic molding (1962 Falcon Squire): http://www.rickwrench.com/wood.html Here's the graining strategy I used: I tried the brush technique but it was too blotchy, so I used a small artist brush, and that failed too, then I tried an old bath towel: Perfect! Here's the US version of what I used: http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=130 The color is: Leather Brown Flat # 7775402 I used maybe 1/10th of a pint. 1) Wrap small piece of towel (3" X 6") folded in half, around your finger. 2) Dip it in Mineral Spirits wrapped around your finger, still. 3) Dip into the paint, shaking off the extra drips. 4) Do the back edges, first, then the ends, then the visible edges, then the flat surfaces, to get the paint on (as thin as possible, but a bit thick) on the whole visible surface of the piece. The idea is to get the paint loaded on the piece, which may require several returns to the Mineral Spirits container (I used a small bowl) and the tin of paint. 5) Here's where the rubber hits the road. Use the same little rag and spread the dark spots out to thin them out, and get the graining effect. Don't press hard, Just 'float' your finger in contact with the surface. This paint dries darker than it appears when wet. I finished off with Rustoleum's Satin Clear Coat (also rust protective type).in Rattle Can format. Aluminum doesn't absorb paint, so I put two coats in case I might need to rub off drips/blobs. Well, I did get a couple of 'thin' spots from rubbing too hard, but the Krylon dries fast enough, that I could touch them up and try again an hour later. The Rustoleum needs 5 hours before you can add another coat. Not that you will, but you can't apply the Rustoleum Clear Coat until its dry (better with 24 hours or longer.) For Canadians, its called Tremclad - Leather Brown Flat -27091- finish. Any Canadian Tire Store should have it. The Tremclad Satin Clear Coat is the US equivalent. Here's the links for the Etch liquid and Canadian paint. Tremclad: http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=541&SBL=5 Etching liquid: US: http://www.por15.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1266/.f Canada: http://www.por15canada.com/can/metalprepdegrease.asp Tomorrow, 24 hours after applying the 'graining' color (Leather Brown), I'll spray on the Tremclad/Rustoleum Clear Coat. Satin finish, not flat (collects road tar too easily) or glossy (shows too many 'sins').