Making your own Headliner

Its a tutorial to make a replacement hardboard-backed headliner replacement. Lots of commented pictures. Very well done!

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=95998

 

Piece of cake! I met that guy at the fabulous fords show this year. Nice guy and his Capri has a 347 stroked engine. Very cool.

 

I made a PDF of it. Have to change mine, sometime. I hope the mounting sides are in mine despite the fact mine has the hoop system, instead of the hardboard system.:confused:

 

I think the hoop system is quite unique to the car. I've never seen another so it must be a Mexico manufacture difference. However, it would be quite easy I think to convert to the hardboard assuming that your upper perimeter trim is the same as the US built cars. I really like mine with the fake swede. It's a nice smooth look.



Dang it, I sure did a lot of interior work on the wagon. Sellers remorse starting....

 

So you've seen the non-hoop perimeter, right? Does this look like it might work? This is my bare-naked hooped ceiling.

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For some reason I can't blow the picture up bigger but the structure looks the same. I was talking about the finish trim around the headliner. The plastic and metal pieces held on by screws. You'd have to get both the front and rear boards plus that metal cross piece that you see in my photo.

 

There's a baby blue Fairmont wagon at Midnight Auto, that the owner says he's hanging onto for me for the side glass. I'll scoop the headliner (saggy, ratty) and bar from him for a template and have a good look. I need the Passenger side, interior A-pillar trim anyway.

EDIT: I read too fast... (Do you mean the finish trim perimeter plastic and metal pieces, or are there others beneath them?)

 

The finish trim. There's nothing underneath except for the structure. I assumed you have the same interior plastics and metal pieces but that may be a big assumption.

 

The glue issue... I used Pro-Form's body and seam sealer when I painted the interior sheetmetal (floors and doors especially) and noticed that it hardens after 2 years. Vinyl floor adhesive or panel adhesive make more sense, especially since the substrate he used is made exactly for that purpose.

Now I have to find some hippy-dippy patterened vinyl... I don't like that foambacked headliner, because it's so easy to mark and tear. I'll look for some like mine (thin, unbacked vinyl, with an embedded geometric texture.

 

Those pieces are the same. You assume correctly.

Already found the Canadian distributor. Sent them an email for a local retailer. Home Depot don't seem to carry it. Might be too soon, since this firm just got the distribution rights.:
http://www.okaply.com/parkland_plastics.php

 

Full list of Plast-Tex distributors/retailers in US and Canada:
http://www.parklandplastics.com/retail.shtml

I'll post the replay I get from Oakply in Canada, as to who sells it here.

 

I don't use that foam backed stuff either. Using the 3M #80 spray glued the fabric directly to the cardboard.

 

What kind of fabric? Rayon, Polyesther or synthetic mix? The current vinyl one has a mesh backing, and after 31 years, its still pliable, but its got tears and brittle edges, mostly from the glue at the factory.

 

Heck I have no idea. It's a fake swede material and it does have some sort of backing material attached. Even with the 3M 80 glue I think vinyl would be too heavy and come undone after a while.

 

This stuff is like oilcloth - table cloths of the early 60s. Maybe 1/32" thick. Very thin. Imagine a floral pattern on the ceiling with veggies printed on it. Grocery Getter decor!