Orthmann no kidding, but I have been lucky, my wife's 2010 Mercedes ML350 hasn't really cost us much, extended warranty covered $1200 which I don't think is bad over a 9 year span, my CLK350 convert. cost me nothing outside of routine maint. My wife's 1997 Audi A6vAvant and then her 2002 A6Avant ran about the same. My 97 Audi Cabriolet did cost me a ton not because the car broke down but because I ran it in stop and go traffic for 7 years. Brakes, sensors etc ran about $2400.00 a year. BUT the potential for catastrophic repairs are always there and lurking
A bit late to this string, but I did some searching on the ‘net and found this: https://www.f150forum.com/f2/liquid-glass-polish-418883/ discussion here points to a replacement by MPT, note the comments by MPT, it sounds as if they were part of Liquid Glass. Here is MPT’s site: http://www.mptindustries.com/mpt_products/classic.htm Has anyone tried the MPT product? I noticed Finish First recommends doing a small section at a time, where as MAK you would do the whole car, let it sit in the sun and then wipe it off. I can’t find it know, but I thought I read for either Finish First or MPT that they stated it was concentrated, so only use a small amount. Also, I’m interested in the 3M 3 stage process – is that what 3M calls its Perfect-iT product? My ’71 Vista Cruiser has badly oxidized (read: California sun) paint. I’m eventually going to have it repainted but wanted to try to bring back as much of the original finish as possible for now. Thanks!
For badly-oxidized paint, a lot of Southwest car owners swear by the California Clay Bar system to remove the oxidized layers before polishing. Just make sure your VC's paint coat has thickness to it, because removing that oxidized layer is reducing the paint's thickness. But, once that's done, no oxidized paint will mark the surface when you polish it. After that, you can lay down any wax or surface coat you want. But the oxidized paint layer must be dealt with first.
Yes you got the 3M correct. 1st used on my 2008 CLK350 Black convert, then 2013 Black Audi A5 convert. pay attention to the foam pad you are using, If something is going to screw up the paint finish there is nothing like a black car to have it show up, I am not expert detailer by anyone's standards but I am ok. With the wagon I followed the below video to a the letter, applied almost NO pressure - didn't want to go thru whatever paint is left just get the oxidation off. And yes I found MPT, read all about them, used it once, did it shine as well, I didn't think so and it was 1 ugly pc of work to get it to wipe off a black car! it also streaked on the black so had to go over it several times before it appeared uniform. I hated this stuff, threw the it away then used McGuire's till I found Finish 1st. Silver..hobo is 100% correct be careful, test small and lightly before you go hog wild on the entire car. Machine I use is an older Porter Cable Dual action polisher #7424 https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...BF607728F5696D97F8F8BF607728F569&&FORM=VRDGAR and yes I did the whole car with Finish First, paint only - no wood grain, plastic or rubber - but I didn't tape those areas off I was just careful
I use a clay bar when there is a lot particulates on the paint itself. The 3 M 3 stage is a 1: is a cutter. You use it with a bit more of a porous green pad. The number 2: is a type of filler that covers the paint swirls and fills in the gaps. #3 is like an oil/ glaze that is applied to finish off the paint. I have always then waxed, or liquid glass over it. The 3 M products are great and the jugs are numbered. It really does bring up the paint nicely. I can’t vouch for heavily oxidized paint, and it certainly is not good when the clear coat is broken. But for dull or hazing paint. It’s phenomenal.