It's not on a wagon, but if y'all are looking to install a Summit Racing carburetor..

So I bought a Summit Racing Street and Strip carburetor, linked here:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08600vs/overview/

Got it installed on Goldie last night (1977 Delta 88, chevy 350), it runs great, I like it... BUT!

You will need to account for a few things if using the factory intake as I did, and a few things depending on which transmission and throttle linkage you have.

First, the summit house brand square to spread bore adapter works great, but the studs are a bit fickle on my intake, I had to use bolts on the back instead of the studs, works fine. Doesn't seem to leak, the studs work well enough but I prefer the bolts, if I'd had four bolts to fit I'd have just used them.

Second, you WILL need a holley style throttle cable bracket, I did not get one, shame on me. I tied it back with some wire I had laying around until I can get or make a bracket. You may be able to modify the factory Q-jet bracket but it will not work as is. I am going to attempt this, I will let you know how it goes.

Third, it will work with TH350 transmissions, and in my case required no modification to the linkage, simply worked as it came from the factory. It may take adjustment, but it works great. BUT the overdrive GM transmissions require an adapter, and it does not work with Chrysler or Ford AOD transmissions, but it will work with standard ones like the 727 with an adapter. It has ford kickdown as well, if you are wondering, I was looking at that in the instructions laughing at you poor ford people. I simply installed a stud, snapped the cable on, and it worked.

Fourth, if you have a Chevy 350 intake, 305 too I think, you will have to delete your EGR or get real creative with a fuel system as the fuel rail will hit it. I saw this before the purchase and now my crusty intake has a cheap summit branded EGR blockoff, chrome plated for whatever reason. Oldsmobile V8's had the EGR on the drivers side I think, so that may not be a problem.

Fifth, your factory air cleaner will most likely not work as the fuel inlets have humps that hit it, you need a higher air cleaner, but with the 3/4" riser you can't just lift the factory air cleaner without hitting the hood, at least I couldn't.

Sixth, you may want to clean the chrome plating off the threads of the included fuel line, they tend to cause leaks, and perhaps use some thread sealant. I managed to get by just by cleaning the threads enough.

Seventh, you will have to get creative with the fuel filter location as on a Chevy 350 it will hit the lower radiator hose immediately out of the pump unless you use a 90 degree fitting, which I did not have. Also note the horrifying fact that you must route the fuel near the alternator.

Eighth, and this is a biggy, my heater core water neck on the intake was directly in the way of the barbed fuel fitting, again, a 90 degree fitting would solve this. I used a home made fitting from the old plumbing from the quadrajet to curve it away just enough.

Ninth, the factory hard fuel line uses the same threads as the included fuel rail, so you may be able to modify it, I wish I had mine to do this, though you'll still have to figure out a fuel filter location.

Lastly, just my two cents, the carburetor for the price comes with a lot, but could use a little more, like oh, I don't know, carburetor studs or bolts. Instructions leave a bit to be desired but they tell you enough. Tuning was rich out of the box, really rich, we got it tuned down and after some highway flogging (that killed my harmonic balancer), I blew out the last of the fuel buildup from the floodtastic Quadrajet.

So yeah, ditch the factory intake if you can afford it and save yourself the hassles I went through. I'll get pics of the install tomorrow, the car is at my friends shop awaiting the new harmonic balancer. Also, I used one of those Edelbrock triangle air filters. I'll update this with more info after I change the distributor (Advance is messed up on the distributor) and put some miles on the car. So far I really like this carburetor, I look forward to putting it on a good Summit branded intake. Oh, side note, the Summit Racing spread to square bore / vice versa adapter did not come with any instructions, but I figured it out after a little while.

So in short, if you are looking to swap a summit racing street & strip 600CFM carb in place of your tired or lackluster carburetor, do it, but remember this is not a show quality carb, but it is certainly go quality. It earns my Shade Tree Mechanics Duct Tape Seal of Approval.

 

Looks like a decent carburator for the price and a lot of nice comments.

 

For all that effort and cost, I could've shown you how to fix your Q-Puke. It just suffers from leaky idle wells, just like the Carter ThermoJunk. Tap down then epoxy seal the wells and no more bad leaks.

 

Great timing. I was helping a buddy strip the cab of his 71 C20 he's restoring and he made a comment about the Summit carb he has on his 350. He previously had a Holley and an Edlebrock and said he loves the Summit carb. My dad has a Delta88 with an Edlebrock carb on his 307 and he's not happy with it and I was researching the Summit carb last night for his car. What did you do to lean it out? Change the jetting? It comes with 67 primaries and 73 secondary jets, what size jets did you end up using, if you changed them?

 

Nope, just had to adjust the screws, they where supposedly set from the factory, but my friend said it looked like someone just turned them for the hell of it. Choke was set right out of the box, dunno if I mentioned this. I just hooked it up in the orange jumper box near the blower fan for now, found a switched 12v source.

Yeah that is one thing I forgot to mention. They do come with good instructions as to which screws do what, but they do not give you specifics because each car is different. Also on cars like ours with the thermal choke you will have to source a switched wire. You can do as I did and find the orange plastic jumper box, should have a switched 12v source in there somewhere.

Yeah seems great, only put maybe 15 miles on it 'cause of my harmonic balancer coming apart though. Can't wait to get the car back so when I get paid Thursday I can fill 'er up for $1.75 a gallon and proceed to ruin what's left of my tires. I really need an alignment, and some new tires. The back drivers side tire is fine. Gee, I wonder why the back passengers side tire is so much more worn?

The carburetor was flooding and missing a lot of things, it wasn't properly rebuilt, and I didn't want to spend more money on it. I'd have been in it the cost of this brand new Summit carb by then.

 

Almost forgot to post this, sorry, but I got the carburetor installed, lot of minor issues with the install but I expected that with a factory intake, got my distributor changed too. Love the new carburetor, it's great.

Here's a video on what I did to install it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ui4lb_8FIHg

 

hey man watched your video, dont know if this is any help to you or not. that carb is a holley model 4010. holley modded the body and lid slightly for summit. if you need any extra space in the rear of the carb, the second power valve cover is a dummy and can be removed.. also there is another version of that carb, the 4011. the 4011 is the spread bore model. that carb name is called the tunnel ram, like the intake. i am running a 4011 right now on my 400. an 84021 to be exact. if it is any help it wont look pretty but if you have a simple flair tool. you can make a fuel line for that carb pretty easy and cheap. i bent and flared two lines out of the carb into a brass t and then off to the side instead of running forward away from all of my heater hoses. i used a 4 inch piece for the front bowl and an 8 inch piece for the rear i came out all of the way to the center of the valve cover past everything. you can also do a quick bend up and over the egr valve if you want it working... fair warning about that carb design though it is very very very prown to vapor lock if the gas you are using has any alcohol in it.. fuel will pool in the egr valve ports if they are not used and make the motor do all kinds of wierd stuff when re started warm. do not make any adjustments on it until after it has been running at least a half hour. the fuel in the passages will afect it a bunch till it has been sucked out. also phenolic spacer is a huge help preferable wood. just my 2 cents. that carb came out in the late 80's originally and the holley people hated it.. easy to rebuild and tune awesome bang for the buck great choice..

 

84 estate thanks. Very interesting.

 

Thought it was a holley, wasn't sure, the body looked like a holley. I think it may be seeping gas out somewhere, but I haven't exactly been easy on it, so I'm not sure, going to go mess with that in a bit and see if I can find the source of the fuel.

All in all, now that it's got about 250 miles put on it, it's great, excellent throttle response, secondaries kick in right when you want them, the linkage works perfectly with my TH350 as well. I feel that the transmission shifts better with this carburetor than the old one, I know that has a lot to do with how it mounts, but I like the way it shifts more now than before. It kicks down easier, and just glides between gears.

I got a new in the box Summit Stage 1 intake off Clist for $120 with NIB intake gaskets, and some silicone, so I saved about $25 all in all. Gonna get a friend to put it on sometime soon. Then I'll use the adapter and get some kind of carb to get the '79 I bought running.