Hello again. Thanks to all from my last post on the ignition problem. I ended up running a wire straight from the battery and to my ignition switch and I've been great since. I now have another issue that needs help. I've spent many hours trying to fix this problem and I need help. My electric back window has never really given me any trouble. Well a few weeks ago it stopped working all together. The switch under the dash has power, I've been unable to locate any break in any wire for continuity, no fuse's blown, no relay bad. Once the window stopped working but there was a live wire under the hood on the fire wall directly in front of the driver up top. a 30 amp voltage relay wire came undone, once I plugged it in the window worked. dont' know if that was coincidence but that relay is fine, well yesterday I went to unplug that relay and when I did the window went down by using the key in the back door. Well, like an idiot I rolled it back up and now it won't come down again. The new relay and old one don't seem to make any difference. I hear a click in the door switch at the back. Power is going to the door window wire's as well.
Sounds like the motor is in shock! Check the relay again, or maybe a loose ground. You could screw a temporary wire from the body to the tailgate and try it, then fix it properly.
I've spent hours upon hours with no luck. I've unplugged every wire from the relay and still can hear the clicking sound as I use the key in the back door to roll down the window. It's crucial for me to get this fixed as my tools, spare can of gas (gauge broken) numerous fluids etc,.. I've got power to the relay, ground wire is secure, no rust or corrosion etc. I've tried running a wire from the battery straight to the rear window but since it's in the up position I can't access the motor/wires. When I pull the rear wheel housing apart to get access to the spare tire, I can trace the wires to the rear lights etc, and what appears to be the wires heading towards the rear door/window but when I check with meter they have power, when I touch the live wire from the battery I get spark, so they are hot. I just cant figure it out. After several weeks of this I'm spent. Cant understand why it came down fine a couple of days ago, then went up fine but refuses to come down again. I've gone to the our local library to view a Chilltons manual but it's been checked out. I will take a picture of this relay and post back with it.
Chilton's circuits are really basic. The Haynes' have more complete circuits, but you need a magnifying glass to read it. Chilton's rarely even include sections on optional equipment or accessories. They do have good diagrams on VECI labels, if you know the engine label.
Sorry I'm not familiar with the wiring/switches on your system. Is there a switch up on the dash as well as on the tailgate? Can you take both switches out of the circuit and run power straight to the motor? I know you said you can't access the wiring connector on the motor because the glass is up, but perhaps you can use a connector on a switch to get power direct to the motor. It has to be something simple.
still not working I agree with you that it should be something simple. It does have a toggle switch under the dash near headlights etc, it's a 4 wire connector with one live wire. it divides somewhere up inside the instrument cluster and can't really find it anywhere after. along the rear wheel well, where the spare tire and jack is, there is a wiring harness with taped up for rear brake lights, back up lites, etc. a few wires disappear out of site and reach which I assume run to the motor located in the rear door/tailgate. Those wires are live and gave off spark when I ran a wire directly from the battery post. again, very frustrating. The front dash toggle switch never gave me issues and does not make any clicking noises. The rear door window keyed handle for the motor has always made some noise when raising or lowering the window and never really gave me much trouble. UGH!!!! any other idea's? I replaced that 30amp 12V. relay, new voltage regulator, as well as ignition switch.
You have 3 choices. 1. Shop it out (very expensive) 2. Get a manual or specific tips: http://www.tocmp.com/ This is a 1968 Shelby Mustang manual. Ford doesn't change the basic electrics in the same model year. http://www.tocmp.com/brochures/Ford/1968/Shelby/index.htm This is a 1969 Mercury Sales brochure: http://www.tocmp.com/brochures/Mercury/1969/index.htm See the Electrical thread further down of this page: http://www.ford-forums.com/ Here's a complete 1969 Mercury manual (17 mb file), 1/3rd of the page down. And more brochures at 2/3rds down. http://www.wingedmessenger.net/Tech.htm 3. Jack up the horn and put a new car under it! I think you've got to do the dirty thing and sort out that mess under the dash. With the manuals, you should be able to peel off the dash pad and see stuff from the top.
go figure. Well. Friday for some reason without doing anything different, no loose wires, no hitting bumps in the road, no nothing, and all of the sudden both the dash toggle and the rear key handle worked all day lowering and raising the window. I kept getting fearful that it would stop on me so I kept running it up and down all day. Same with yesterday, no problems operating the rear window until I got to my parents house. it would not go down. BUT, it would go up with no problem. which makes me think the problem is only with operating it down and not up. I will check out the links from the last post and follow up again.
