Hi! There's a white spot on my hood, on a 20yr old ford, and at the same location on top of the car (less visible of course). I was told that it was sort of a microfracturing/ crackling effect just in the clear coat. Makes sense to me. This is cosmetic, so I'd left it alone; but.. I'm doing so much work on the car, I'd like to take care of it now. I was told at the autoparts store to try 1000 grit wet/dry (which I already have from my woodworking interests), proceed very gently, and as soon as I see raw paint again without any white blushing, stop immediately, clean it off, and use the top coat spray paint? Put on maybe three layers, then buff out with a soft cotton pad? I bought a $30 buffer from harbor freight some months ago for another project. Can I also simply buff out the entire car, not over doing it (to not burn through the clear coat), to get it to REALLY shine? What cleaners/ waxes have worked best for you? I've never waxed a car before, and the autoparts store happily stocks an entire aisle of dozens of brands to select between.
Luckily, I don't have to deal with that. I rolled on my 8 coats of rust paint. But, I looked around for some good info before and during my process. Hotrod mag had a series on the entire body resto trip (10 parts). These 2, 6 and 10 should help with that, but there's also a couple below with Detailing tips, buffing, and general body stuff: http://www.hotrod.com/howto/hdrp_0610_paint_body_tips_tricks_materials_sanding/index.html http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0702_car_polishing_techniques/index.html In case you're interested about roller painting: http://spokanehotrod.spaces.live.com/blog/cns!ACBE4D187B0DFB3E!253.entry Back to body and paint stuff: http://www.autobody101.com/articles/ Clearcoat repair thread, but check out more on this site in the Detailing section: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-university/2098-repairing-clear-coat.html
I'd go very carefully with that buffer, Bernini. Doesn't take much to burn through the clear into the paint. You might want to check out a good body shop in your area (not a 'production' paint shop like Maaco). Just have them look at it. You might be surprised that it costs less than you think to fix it. They can also give you advice on how to proceed if you do it yourself.
I'm with you there KK. Old clearcoat with new 'small repair' supplies isn't for the newbie. takes a bit of grey on the roof of the guy who knows his stuff.
If you are going to use a buffer use an orbital. Do not use a high speed single direction spin. Frankly, I would never attempt this project myself. I have a product that will make that color come up and the white spot disappear but I don't talk about it here. Besides, it will reappear in time and you would have to do it again. KK has given very good advice.
Bernie, I agree with Krash. ( I also have a couple of small spidery areas in the clearcoat. For now, I will leave them alone. I intend to own the car for many years, and will monitor the deterioration over time. I figure for the car's 35th birthday - I will be 64, if I make it - I will prolong the body with a quality repaint. The woodgrain Di-Noc should still be fine, because the leather conditioner I'm using is amazing and contains a sunscreen.) In the meantime, I accept the flaws of aging on the car as just part of having a great, old wagon. I didn't have patience for imperfection when I was young, but now I know that there is no such thing as perfection. Keep up the good work on your Colony. You are truly dedicated. :2_thumbs_up_-_anima
Good point about no such thing as perfection, merc. You can chase it forever and never win. It is an ongoing frustration that only age and experience can overcome. Polishing our old wagons is never a bad thing. Patina has its own honest glow.
Auto manufacturers started using a 2-stage paint system (color, then clear coat) in the mid-80's IIRC. That wasn't the only big change, though. In the early 90's they also started switching to a water-borne paint system. The gubament and the states were cracking down on VOC emissions (Volatile Organic Compounds). Between the switch to 2-stage, and the water-based paint systems, the manufacturer's paint departments (not to mention body shops) had their hands full.....
Hahaha, OK. Guy at autozone tried to tell me it was a couple hours with their spray on clear coat and a bit of polish If that were the case, I'd do it, like I'd do spark plugs; a mini project Since it's not exactly rusting underneath, and is purely cosmetic... I'll just leave it. Called the body shop and found out they wanted to redo the entire hood back to the primer at a cost of $500. Of course, I'd do the prep work myself, but that'd still be $250... it can wait. Maybe in a number of years, as it gets worse, I'll tackle repainting the entire car. Just thought it might be more of a minor task....
Remember the Karate Kid movies? The old guy started him off washing and waxing his car collection? Well, if you want to build up your pecks and arms, roller painting is a lot cheaper than a gym. Besides roller painting it, I think I wetsanded, arms stretched out on my toes, at least 15 times. My short wagon roof looked as long as an airport limo sometimes. But I got 8 coats on it, after 2 primer coats, and it doesn't fade (rustoleum), so I can touch it up whenever I get a stone chip. All for the humongous cost of $214 CDN$ in sandpaper, paint and thinners, scrapers, etc. It ain't Show Grade, but I've had lots of thumbs up. And I did it outside, under a tarp, with curious mosquitoes found dead in the morning. Without the body prep it took me 10 days. Looks like heck for the first 4 days (runs and streaks) and then, and then! Bingo! Most roller-painters go to 6 coats. With our snow-scraper weather, I went 8 coats. http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=711 http://rolledon.forummotion.com/index.htm http://spokanehotrod.spaces.live.com/blog/cns!ACBE4D187B0DFB3E!253.entry http://carpainting.wetpaint.com/page/Roller+Method EDIT: Rickwrench's Corvair for $50 in paint and materials. Also has a section with pics on applying woodgrain vinyl to his Falcon Squire. http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html Or I saved $5,000...
