Power steering hose for small coolant lines and loose fitting

Discussion in 'General Automotive Tech' started by AshTray900, Jul 21, 2015.

  1. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

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    115 in lbs I mean typo
     
  2. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    No, you have it right either way. And the tightness is from the encrusted oil on the threads and the rubber/steel sealing washers. Just make sure you clean and wirebrush those bolt threads to give the proper torque value; do not use oil or anti-seize on the threads.
     
  3. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

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    Ok got it all on. I was confused about this first and 2nd design **** but I ended up getting 2nd design seem to fit just had extra plastic pushrod guides as well with the built in internal ones. All pushrods in correct spot. Rockers tightened to spec and are not adjustable.now it's spinning fast and will not crank. I've heard I may have to wait it out for hydraulic lifters to settle or did the stupid parts store sell me the wrong gasket. I told them what vehicle I had... any ideas just finished a few hours ago and a few backfires and fast spinning like no compression is what I'm getting. But I haven't touched heads
     
  4. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

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    BTW it ran before job just fine just shot put antifreeze from a Crack on water jacket
     
  5. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

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    Ha just got it to crank and idle. Little lifter noise getting smoother so I shut it off and will let it settle. Looks like lifter lock may have been my issue. Now just to flush radiator change wp. Oil is fine and nothing dropped into the opening so I'm going to run on it for a just a tad then change
     
  6. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Yeah, the lifters can be a problem; the proper way to do the reinstall is to turn the crank while torqueing down each pair that's on the cam's base circle. But when a customer wants their car YESTERDAY, you don't have time for niceities. Make sure before start-up to crack the air bleeders, then crack them again after you turn the engine off. Those damned things are a b!tch to get the trapped air out; sometimes you have to open them, then pour coolant into the radiator to force the air up. I've had air locked ones take five or more cycles to purge the air, and then I have to further purge the top one on the crossover pipe with the engine running and live steam coming out. It may even cause the system to puke coolant out of the neck when you shut it off. My apologies for giving you a live grenade, but I have been on that battlefield.
     
  7. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

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    Ok new coolant looks fine, car is running. No mix detectible. But a few lifters are clicking pretty bad and the car has problems going up hill it seems to loose power and shakes bad until you floor it and it kicks back in. I even notice this with cruise control it drops speed and then has to overcompensate to get it back if on an incline. Motor revs fine with no load just clicking. God I'm so tired of this I'm not pulling the intake out of it again and infact I have a second one from eBay coming, the first I got in a pinch to finish the job this weekend from junkyard. I'm ready y
    To just drive this thing into the ground and just have engine replaced with new one now that I have a spare intake on the way. A couple of the pushrod guides in the gasket seemed to sit on top of the bottom of metal ones on the car but only raised the rod space up a tad, plus when I torqued the rockers they looked fine. If this is the problem maybe I can hope the push rods will eventually wear down the spot on the gasket a tad and start running better. I cannot a just valves in this car. My original gasket or the one that was on it when I got it was a metal felpro, then they had two plastic ones in stock, 1st design and 2nd design, I got the second one they said it sits their pc says fits your car... but the metal felpro I think works with both desiges. I'm willing to bet they sold me the wrong damn part but I'm seriously finished with this car for a couple years it's not my daily driver and if the time comes and it needs a new engine I can make sure my shop orders one that has had all the faulty gm designs upgraded. Ugh I'm sick really last night I thought I was going to puke putting the rest of the gear back on. Sad part is I took my sweet time with removal and replace of lower intake. Kept all rods in right spot... hmm well I don't know I just can't drop any more cash for a couple years and it's good it's running well enough to drive and not leaking anything.
     
  8. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Damn. That's too bad the lifters are making noise. What weight of oil did you put in?
     
  9. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

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    5 30 what it calls for. Odd sometimes it bogs down other times not. I'm just gonna keep on running with it I didn't do anything to change lifters
     
  10. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

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    Seems to run better after being on the road for a bit, maybe it will work itself out I don't know I'm at a loss
     
  11. 59 wagon man

    59 wagon man Well-Known Member

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    try some marvel mystery oil .not sure what it does but it can help with a sticky or dirty lifter
     
  12. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah a mystery is what it is lifters always chattering no matter what, sometimes car runs fine sometimes I have to floor it to get rpms to change gears and then it bucks after I'm up to speed backing off the pedal even sometimes speeds the car up. Two blocks then it may go up the steepest hill with no power issues. Then sometimes the engine vibrates like crazy when letting go of the pedal a bit on the hwy at 75 etc. All hoses hooked back up and even gummy ones replaced. Rewired vss because it's lines were melting due to bad rotted looming. Replaced maf sensor, I just don't know how in the hell an intake job would start all this. The car always idles fine, before gasket replacement it ran well but at 80 plus the engine would vibrate. This is the oddest problem. My rockers are not a just able so can't be that pulled one vc and all looked good. Pushrods were put back in the exact order they were removed. Vc was getting plenty of oil... man I'm up a creek I don't even think my master mechanic we've always used could figure this one out. Sometimes 1st comes out powerful then 2nd bogs down sometimes it feels as if it had no power, sometimes it runs in city fine but crap on hwy with cruise set. Just today it went 5 miles cruise struggling to maintain speed, then five miles like a champ then again crappy, then when I took the exit the car rode in town just fine, however sometimes it's even hard for me to hit 30 in town. No rhyme or reason and no engine codes.. maybe I should just live with it for the rest of the motors life. It can be very hard at times when I was keeping up then hit a light and get started off like an 18 wheeler except I can't really slowly accelerate up an incline, I have to put ass into it and it down shifts and makes a little jump in speed then when it shifts back up I'm rolling good. All this is intermittent at different times. BTW this is not a transmission issue, the tranny was fine before and it's vacuum hose is back where it should be. Nothing else effecting tranny related, vss repaired and speed is always accurate and when I say bog down I don't mean slip where it revs up and can't catch I mean rpms won't raise. Tps was working just fine when tb removed and I replaced the pigtail a week before due to aftermarket Tps failing and original was fine it was the plug. It did not have any issues like this except engine shake at high high speeds and two times vss went nuts because it was sorting this has been resolved. I'm beginning to think nobody can figure it out. Under heavy pedal but poor speed temp raises 1 notch but still in middle then after its running normal it's about a notch lower car never overheats ever...
     
  13. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Based on what you're saying, you could have lifters that lose their charge when you cruise but pump up when engine speed's above 2000 RPM. Then again, it may just be trying to relearn the engine, if you had disconnected the battery. I think things are OK, so for the time being, drive it, and just go really easy on it. Do so over the next two weeks, and report back then. If you have any questions, just PM me.
     
  14. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

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    Ok will do, yes batt was disconnected, thanks will update you, thanks for a sensible explanation!
     
  15. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

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    well it kept having problems, some days fine some awfull, everytime I would jiggle the wires by the alternator it would sometimes clear up so I tried to put a little spring back in the connectors, all of them and cleaned them up including fuel injection and right after I cranked it up hoping it may have been fixed oil is now just pouring out of the motor under the thermostat, im like wtf, can this car is cursed, I mean when I say pouring a couple minutes and the engine and tranny have it slopping off the side. I sealed the intake well I think, and there should be no pressure in there really and I don't think oil could run out of it that fast if the rtv got a tad loose but I may be wrong, also im wondering about the dummy distributor, maybe the new o ring gave out, hell I don't know, im seriously sick of this ****

    intake has been on for awhile and doing just fine, still no oil and water mixing, coolant hoses hold pressure for a long time, god I hope I don't have to ****ing pull the intake again
     

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