Power steering hose for small coolant lines and loose fitting

I have two tiny 3 inch lines to the intake that circulate through throttle body. all I had was high temp high pressure line for power steering return hoses, seemed very hardy lines much more so that water hose, will these be fine for coolant, please with all respect don't give me the line of all hoses are specifically formulated for each type of liquid, unless you have personally witnessed the deterioration of a power steering hose in a coolant application. these are high temp high pressure hoses built to withstand all that and nasty old power steering fluid.

also in getting the two hoses off one of the coolant tubes pulled out of the intake, I was able to tap it back in with a screwdriver most of the way but its still 4 or 5 mm from seated, anyone have a good idea to snug it up, its a very tight spot and I kind of need a small c clamp with one end that has an adjustable crescent etc so I can grab the tube pull up to the lip and continue to press it in. very tight spot and I don't want to remove throttle and linkage and the rest again etc lol

 

Add some tiki lamp oil to the fluid. It will make the lines more pliable. Tiki lamp oil is a cure all for everything.

 

well engine crapped out, there was a crack in the intake manifold that spead to the temp sending unit eventually and popped it out and is blowing water all out so point is moot, engine has obviously been running hot for awhile, I know this because thinking back too when I got it, all grommets on engine were gummy, but all close were ok, original temp sender was not working properly, and I had to replace a couple pigtails, plus its probably why a hose that didn't look very bad blew a large split in the side, I don't trust any part of the engine, I am going to save up and have the entire assembly replaced by the shop, they quoted around 5 grand, even though that's high, they have been my go to guys for everything for 20 years and do excellent work, plus ill get a warranty with the motor, and ill get a new intake in the process obviously since motors rarely come without them. the difference between replacing intake and gasket and just gasket was only about 200 dollars, they did not diagnose the car I asked them for the quote specifically, and this will ultimate solve all engine related issues I have been talking about on here. the body is so excellent im not letting this wagon go since ill never find one this clean, paint looks new, carpet clean, dash still soft, headliner is not falling but is not plush anymore and visors have loose fabric, this is the only cosmetic issue at all besides a couple bent spots on the very underside about baseball sized.

 

Why not just get a junk yard intake, replace it and new gaskets, see how it runs. $5000 is a lot of money if the original engine runs decent.
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Most of us read all of the threads. Once is enough.:confused:

 

Why try to convince him otherwise, he has already made up his mind.

 

Is this the same one we were just discussing a couple weeks ago? Man, those 3100/3400/3500 engines may have a weak spot in the intake gaskets, but the rest of the engine is very stout. You can save a helluva lot of money just by buying a replacement intake and a new gasket set, plus any needed parts. The only thing I'd say for engine replacement is if the oil system or the head gaskets are compromised.

 

Well I started tearing into the engine today. Figured what the hell if it's destined for a new motor it just is, but I am all the way down to fuel rail and having to toss ps pump and alt to the side. Major issue is temp sender broke out of its socket for no reason under pressure, then I have the slight coolant issue, when I pull the intake I can look for signs in there. One question, I know pushrods need to go back where they came from so ex and int ports have right lent rods but what about rocker arms, are they non adjustable and I just need to tighten them up good or do I need to adjust and if so how. I am going to be very delicate with the intake I've seen these Crack under hand ratchet pressure so I'm going to just snug them up decent. Rocker arms the same way, can damage be done to head or is it OK to put some weight behind my ratched. I also have a torque wrench but from what I've seen I'm staying away from it

 

The rockers are non adjustable and are just torqued down to spec. Make note as you mentioned to get the intake and exhaust push rods in the correct locations.

There is a torque spec on the lower intake bolts, but one or two of them are impossible to get on with a torque wrench from what I recall.

You won't do any damage to the heads, just make sure they are torqued down to the proper spec. There is a process you must follow. The hardest part about pulling the heads is all of the exhaust heat shields they put in there. You cannot pull the exhaust manifolds without taking the heat shields off.

 

Just doing intake. Man they are hard to find for first Gen 3100 gm discontinued it. Parts stores can't get it. Junkyards are saying they don't have one. I know the machinist can fix mine cause a chunk is missing now. Ordered from eBay fo 50 bucks all together. Hoping for the best. I'm going to snug the intake bolts down just as they were on there to begin with I'm not cracking that ****ty intake manifold. Hoping heads are ok. No intake available means I can't get engine replaced unless it's possible to retrofit newer 3100 or 3400 without ecm issues

 

Retrofit? Check with a GM dealer, they used to have kits to install 3100/3400 engines in any car with a 2.8/3.1/3100, and the kit included the necessary parts to upgrade the ECU. As far as the intake is concerned, the way I did it was to use an LB/inch torque wrench, 1/4" drive sockets and extension, and a universal ("wobbly") to be able to access those two last bolts partly hidden. Once all the bolts are placed in their holes and threads engaged, use a regular ratchet to run the bolts down until they just contact the intake. Switch to the torque wrench, and run through the torque sequence THREE TIMES in order to correctly seat the intake and properly torque down the intake bolts. The old intake may have broken because the previous mechanic may have not used the torque sequence and it broke the intake as he torqued it down.

 

What's the sequence and torque? I am very afraid of this so brittle metal

 

You should be able to google them. I don't have access to Alldata or Chilton Online anymore, so if I wanted them, I'd google them.

 

My buddy has a data lookup app from work he works at a shop hopefully he can get them gaskets were felpro not original but water jackets all looked bad and one had a teat protruding into water area, Probably sealed up under pressure but let oil slip by before it got hot

 

One more suggestion, part of what I did on those engines (and not to break my arm patting myself on the back, but zero comebacks). Use the black RTV, not just on the corners and the block ends, but also on the head side of the coolant jacket holes. This helps ensure the coolant can't get trapped between the raised rubber and the intake surface of the head.

 

Ok thanks for the tip, I see lim 115 inch lbs tighten 4 in center 1st then 4 on out side last, I assume with a diagonal pattern on each. That's pretty light these were on tight when I pulled them off some of the inner rubber on coolant ports was breaking away well on all of them really. Wonder if **** ass mechanic just put some ass into them causing failure of already aftermarket good felpro gaskets. I got all the way in and the gaskets were **** at all cooling ports with one broken slit that looked bad enough to let oil in water but when water pressurized it pushed it back and sealed hence no water in oil. I assume just work my way back from center crisscrossing on uim just snug I've seen these ears be broken by a mechanic before I don't want that happening to mine! I will get an extra tube of sealant. Is it the "ultra black" you speak of? The one who did it before me used red something. My lim has been ordered since it cracked at temp su is brake parts cleaner ok to clean the lim and uim while off car as long as I let dry before mounting? What to do about the two outer bolts on the lim that I can barely get my socket on? Can 125 inch pounds be estimated by hand safely? I assume this would be a little less that 12 foot lbs on my TR. But two are getting the hand wrench what to do lol. The outer 4 are on the water ports too! The part that fails. Anyways I'm all the way in and I'm glad that I was talked out of engine replacement which wouldn't be possible without me having a good lim anyways. Now hopefully I won't get shifted on by ebay!! I know there are two versions of 3100 so I made sure the listing said it would fit my vehicle under the vehicle search. Now how much torque on that temp sender, this point may be moot which is why torque guide has nothing for it on this car. Mine had been crossthreadded from the start so maybe I can get the other in smoothly. Also right by it was a cooling hookup for heater core and throttle body hoses. I did not remove gms crazy quick clamp it just spun in it so I took off manifold while on car. A wrap or two of Teflon tape or some other product I need to buy from parts house?