INTRO Its a 'mad Pierre' morning at -43C, as it was last evening, so I thought I'd put some meat to my thoughts. Mad Pierre was a train engineer who often came through small towns in eastern Canada, and woke couples up at 4:30 AM, on winter days like today. Too late to go back to sleep, to early to get up. That's how our national statistics wizards explained the high birthrates in those towns. Except my wife went to work early. I don't know how much I'll get done this year to get my Fairmont just the way I want it, but I want more power and torque. For the 'more power' part, I hope to find the right carburetor solution, but I'll start with a professional rebuild on mine, and have it tuned at my TRUSTED Ford dealer (The owner today, actually sold me a new 1981 Fairmont Futura wagon in November 1980 and they've done some work on my 1979 - never disappointed.) I'm going with my trusty 200 CID 6-banger. Its barely got 5,000 miles on the engine and tranny since they were rebuilt. I'll try to switch to a T5 5-speed stickshift, when I find the pedals for the Fairmont or an old Mustang with a 302-T5 setup, and modify the bell housing for my Six. And I'll change the rearend to at least a 3.27 or 3.45:1 ratio. 3.45 was an option in 4-banger Fairmonts, and '79 to 83 Turbo Capris and Mustangs. The "More Torque" part will come with some of the above, but a decent set of headers would give me both power and torque. maybe 10 HP more and 15 lbs of torque more. Doesn't sound like much, but she's a light-weight wagon, coming in at about 2,700 lbs. The hiccup is that the commercial headers for the Fairmonts and Zephyrs with a six-banger, won't let you keep the AC pump on the passenger side. Not good for us, because we hope to drive to and through Mexico, in places where the temperatures can hit 120 F (50C). Sooo.. never having built headers myself, (BUT I can tackweld a set up for a muffler shop to finish up for me), I wondered how the rat rodders did it, back in the old days, AND if today's technologies made it easier. So what follows are active links and comments to "How to do it" and "The New Tech for a good DIY result. Two things I can't do: Final Welding and Ceramic coating, so anyone thinking about doing their own should find a good welding or exhaust shop and likely a machine shop to cut the 3/8" flanges that will bolt into the head(s). I can cut the flanges, but I can't polish the inside surfaces of the exhaust ports. I may get a local shop to cut mine anyway, from a manifold or use HandyAndy's new flange for a template for mine. One thing I can do, is make the tube mockups for the muffler shop or tubing benders and that's in the next posts.
Bending your own in plastic! Bending PVC and ABS Links: Generic, but informative: http://www.ehow.com/how_4796089_bend-pvc-pipe.html A bit more technical: http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/PVC.cfm Nice DIY pipe or sheet bender using an old Toaster Oven system: http://www.instructables.com/id/Poor-man-s-200-dollar-plastic-heat-strip-for-penni/?ALLSTEPS Youtube demo, non-professional, but good to know: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BYq6hENHsk Another flick, using air pressure: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZ4U7XdTIFQ Need cheap gate hinges? Use PVC pipe to make them: http://www.pvcplans.com/hinges.htm Did your wind turbine lose its blades? Make new ones: http://www.ehow.com/how_7592269_cut-blades-wind-turbine-pvc.html Making crafty things like Headers also shares techniques with using PVC to make other stuff: http://nizzymoulds.com/Ovall%20PVC.htm And coloring it: http://www.paklinks.com/gs/rss-gadg...nently-stain-pvc-pipe-any-color-you-want.html If you look at some of those links, they lead to other PVC items like these: http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/sanders94.html http://www.parrotforums.com/do-yourself/38883-heat-forming-trial-pvc-pipe.html http://www.parrotforums.com/do-yourself/38922-vacation-accommodations.html The Seven Dwarfs Replacements: http://pvcyardbirds.com/flamingo.html Now onto some Header Science and Tech
Header Science and Tech Yes, I'm an Engineer, but not an Automotive or Pressure specialist. I can read a scientific calculator, but you don't need one for this. It does present a lot of question marks though. So lets see what the car magazines say. Here's where I got that link to the header modelling kit with plastic donuts http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/...0;mtfAdjustOverflow=true;tile=8;kx=;ord=70113; Hands on stuff for a DIYer: http://www.hotrod.com/howto/43321_exhaust_headers_street_rods/ http://www.rodauthority.com/news/hedman-diy-custom-headers-the-options-are-endless/ HOW HEADERS WORK - Must Read! http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/exhaust/0504sc_header/viewall.html More hands on - check the links at the bottom of the article too: http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/1010rc_custom_exhaust_systems/viewall.html This is an OLD SCHOOL site - parts and tech: http://lakeheaders.com/Home.html Need some parts to roll your own? http://www.hedman.com/HOT-RODS-Old-School http://www.shopbot.ca/exhaust-pipes/price/canada/63142 http://www.garagesupplies.ca/exhaust/flex-pipe.html http://www.walkerexhaust.com/products/pipes-tubing/universal-pipe http://www.walkerexhaust.com/products/pipes-tubing More Tech: How to size (Diameter and Length) headers: http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/1111phr_how_to_size_headers/ http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0505em_exh/ http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Header_design They've got lots of good info too: http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Crankshaft_Coalition_Wiki This calculator was referenced in that last Popular Hotrodding article. If you read the article, the charts they used were enough, but you can play with it: http://horsepowercalculators.net/headerdesign/header-design Their other HP calculator isn't a freebie: http://horsepowercalculators.net/the-horsepower-calculator More parts: http://www.burnsstainless.com/ More software: http://www.maxracesoftware.com/ EDIT: Free automotive power calculator for Windows: http://download.cnet.com/Virtual-Engine-Calculator/3000-2136_4-10066875.html If you want a single exhaust, even on my SIX, you need a Y-Pipe: http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-mufflers/69A2680A0A0.aspx For Ford I6 engines, this is a good thread on headers and who and where: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124107 They send you to this and those Ford Six guys are good: http://fordsix.com/forum/ And this Hotrod Magazine Forum thread gets really practical, down to using small aluminum tubing and bandsawed wood parts to make the mockups. http://forums.hotrod.com/70/1365992/pit-stop/header-design-primer/ Now all that's left is the ceramic coating: The top header manufacturers all use this product. It keeps the underhood heat down, and prevents early corrosion, as well as keeps their headers looking great for years. http://www.jet-hot.com/ EDIT2: Jet Hot magazine article: This CarCraft aricle is from 2002. I don't know if there's better or other ceramic powder-coating insulator coatings other than this Jet Hot product. Only licensed dealers or the factory can directly do it. Heck of a warranty though. Lifetime, and they pay the shipping both ways. http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/high_tech_ceramic_coatings/ As I said before, I can't do the final welding. Don't know how. I can tackweld with my little MAP Gas torch. I could even tig weld, if I had one, which I might with the money I save. As it is, the muffler shops want $90 just to make up the down-pipe from the manifold. What I learn doing this will save me bundles every time I need my exhaust replaced. PVC pipe is cheap, and so are heat guns. Its worth a try.
DIY Headers? When I open one of Stormie Norman's threads I never know what to expect.??????? I thought for sure I was gonna learn how to make ceiling headers for my next garage project. I suppose even those could be mocked up with PVC pipe. But why not just make those exhaust headers from the high heat thick walled hot water PVC pipe and be done with it? No welding. Just glue those suckers together. A kitchen sink food garbage disposal would make a good muffler. Now back to the house renos and how to make headers in an attic.
Mad Pierre has left this c-c-cold -43C temperature (-46F) hovering until noon today, so I thought I'd infest your imagination. It worked! Header temps run up to 1300 F. Just a tad too hot for plastic.
In theory. But if you drive fast enough in those -46F temps the outside of the headers will stay cool. Our kids all have PVC pipe on their furnaces to exhaust exhaust. Tune that carbonator right and that six banger will run cool. Now I have to de-infest my mind.
Pass me a brewskie too. We watched a DVD movie last night (no cable, no rabbit ears, no TV! No ads, no politicians lying!) Yeah!), and the wife dropped off, so I started digging for info on the WWW until 12:30 AM! She hollered, I obeyed! So I figured I'd post this, because even the old rat rod guys are finding it hard to get parts. Imagine my throw-away Ford! Ain't happening! Sure is nice to see folks finding solutions to planned osbsolesence.
Alternative Ceramic coater I use Bing.com for searching. Got tired of google's ads and structured search results. So I put Bing into 'Only in Canada' mode and found a ceramic coating outfit in Calgary Alberta. 7 day turn-around, guaranteed for life! http://www.topguncoatings.com/index.html
So, what's the average cost of these coatings? By the way, since ceramic coatings help hold down heat, have your new home made PVC pipe headers coated inside and out. Now back to the regularly scheduled DIY roof truss header project.
Hey Storman Norman, I do this for a living! What do you need to know?I think I can help you with just about every aspect. Tell me what you car is exactly, keeping in mind we would not have anything like this in Australia to compare to. You say it is a Fairmont but can you give me more specific details. Cheers Mike
I saw one site that said $195, and another at $295. Shipping might be in the second one, don't know. The bent PVC pipes are just for mockup purposes.
Its a 1979 Fairmont Stationwagon, with an inline 3.3L Six (200 CID). Your early XE fairmonts had that engine. The 250 CID Aussie engines have taller cylinder heads, and removable manifolds. The 200 CID is a fixed intake casting integral with the head casting. The exhaust manifold is removable. Also, my generator and AC (Air Conditioner) pump is on the righthand side with the exhaust. I can't imagine what the shipping charges would be from Australia. Here's an Aussie Performance site that has some technical info. They also have a California warehouse/store. http://www.fordsixperformance.com.au/ford-6-engine-family/ford-6-usa/ And for North America, we also have Classic Inlines who actually developed an Aluminum 250 CID head like the Aussie head: http://www.classicinlines.com/
Fox-body, same as a 79-86 Mustang. The first fox-body actually, since it came out in '78, a year earlier than the Mustangs. Oh and Norm, there is no physical difference between a 250 and a 200 head, they are one and the same. The difference lies in the year of manufacture. The early ones had small logs, the later models after ours had a larger hex-shaped log. I think those ones may have the low mount starter which gives all the V8 bellhousing options.
Thanks Andy. I thought that might be the engine, but I am surprised it was still made up til 83! Our Aussie falcon left this engine (actually that cylinder head) behind after XB around 77 when the XC was released when this engine appeared with a revised cross flow design cast in iron then later in alloy for the model change in XD around 79. The block remained pretty well the same. A few facts though, there is a factory head from that era that had a removable inlet manifold called a 2V which was a factory option and which may have found its way in front of a 4 speed usually in the Falcon GS model and you are both right. Norman yes the 250 is taller, and Andy yes all of the cylinder heads have the same deck height. It is in the block that the 250 is taller, about 2" in fact at least this was the case here in Australia. This can play havoc when choosing the right header for the engine type. Norman I agree freighting a header to the US or Canada would be expensive, but all you really need is the head flange plates and two 3 way collector cones for the primary pipes and one 2 way collector for secondary pipes if you decide to go to a single exhaust. all of this would fit in less than a shoe box. Also I am heading to the US in just over 2 weeks time and I am happy to post these to you once I arrive as they will take up very little space in my luggage. Let me know if you do decide to make you own headers and we can work this out. . Cheers Mike
Never thought the Aussies had Mustangs and Mercury Capris, as well? Makes sense, now that you point it out, since we'd have to modify our oilpans to shoehorn a 250 into our Fox bodies. What's this about 'Newer' 200s with hex-shaped logs? What years? So much I've never seen. Gotta do more junkyard runs and live a little, huh?