Ford 302 noise...

Lol I suggested rebuilding a or the engine. I'm seeing it more of a cost up front rather than nickel and dime over and over later on. If the lifters need replacing, cam, and/or a oil pump I'm thinking to myself to save money I can rebuild it or one on my own and not have to worry about doing everything under a hood too... Some of you guys understand what I mean I hope lol. Same thing with my firebird the engine started having alot of issues so I simply took the engine out rebuilt it then dropped it in and didn't even cramp up and the engine hasn't shown me any issues even with a lumpy idle (I kinda put some $$$ into that engine though lolz).

 

Andy's 'Auto-Rx' is a good way to nail it down, so that you know if you have to go that far or not.

Sure was fun spending your money, for a change.

 

According to the FoMoCo service manual, when a hi-mileage 289/302 starts making excessive noise, the best course of action is install an amplifier up-grade, and adjust the stereo volume accordingly.. ..

Seriously, it just sounds like gummed-up hydraulic lifters. They're designed to use oil-pressure to "self-lash" themselves (almost sounds a little kinky). On older engines, they can get gummed with varnish or, conversely, they can get leaky and not pump-up properly.

Norm was on the right track with the screw-driver trick. By holding the handle to your ear (picture how you press the little "bump" closed with your finger when things get loud), you can use the tip of the screw-driver to listen to all of your engine's intimate "tummy-gurgles" in surprising detail. Run the tip along between the valve-cover and intake manifold (before the engine warms-up), and you'll quickly find your culprit(s). Another tattle-tale for 5.0 Fords is to remove the valve-covers and (from a cold-start) watch the tips of the rockers for oil coming-up from the lifters. You'll most-likely find the slow-pokes are the same ones making all the clatter.

It's tempting to replace just one-or-three lifters, but go for the whole set, as valves like to sing in perfect harmony. Just back-off the rocker-nuts, and lift-out the push-rods (I go one at a time, thinking old things don't like major changes in their surroundings), and use a reverse lifter "grabbie"-tool (parts-store has 'em), and tug the lifters from their bores. A well-warmed engine always helps, and for any stubborn ones, an old-timey "squirt" oil-can with ATF and some "tap-tap" action will work them loose.

To install the new lifters, you'll need a bowl of oil deep enough to submerge the lifters (traditionally, mom's good Tupper-ware), and use a non-metallic implement (stick) to cycle the inside plunger to work-out the air-bubbles. Also, make sure the bores are squeaky-clean (I like rags and ATF). Finally, wipe the flats off, and apply a smear of quality cam-lube (Crane, Isky, etc.). This last part is important, as this will be a mixed-marriage, and the break-in honeymoon can get kinda' frantic. Reset the rockers (check the spec's for your year engine), and you should be good to go.

Oh yeah, don't forget to keep a coupla' clean rags handy, to stuff in your ears, if mom catches you with her tupper-ware.. ..

 

stangflt, you're a house divider like me. I finally learned though. I go to secondhand shops and try to find some containers that look exactly like my wife's. She rants and hollers until I show her where 'HERS' are!

Now, she checks first, and gives me a mean grin!

I've seen those mechanics stethoscopes and some are pretty lame, except the pro-versions from Snap On or MacTools. A long screw driver or one of those spring loaded flexible parts picker uppers Kinda like a coax cable with 3 fingers on the end. They work pretty good without knocking your ear out!

 

Aw well it is and isn't too much of a priority cause I did take my stethoscope to it and yeah I figured it was the lifters the whole time kinda like my bird has roller hydraulic lifters and they both sounded similar so thicker oil for now until I have the time to do anything with it I leave in November...

 

Ok another issue when It starts sometimes it stalls mostly if I have the ac on and forget to turn it off. After that the other issue is that when cold I can step on the gas it will thrust forward once then sound like it's not getting anything coast for a couple seconds then rev back up. Could this be something with the ignition? I say ignition cause it just feels like it's still firing but not enough to spin the wagon forward... I have replaced the air and fuel filter...

 

Yeah....if only I could remember things, bowse. There is a sensor on the 302 that goes bad....can't remember the name of it but I think it's the idle sensor. They are notorious for the problem. dammit....sorry I can't remember this stuff anymore.
Could be the idle control valve or throttle position sensor.......there is one that causes the up & down problem but I can't remember which one.

 

The hesitation you're describing sounds like the accelerator pump on your carb is under-performing. The carb depends on manifold (and venturi) vacuum to properly meter fuel and, at low RPM's, opening the throttle causes the vacuum to fall-off until RPM's start to catch-up. The carb uses an acc-pump to mechanically feed a brief dose of fuel to compensate for the delay.

I don't know your particular carb, but you'll most-often find a small "add-on" looking device on the front of the fuel-bowl, with a small toggle-lever connecting to the external throttle linkages. When you first "tip" the throttle, the lever squeezes a small diaphram, and provides the extra "spritz" you need.

The actual part is inexpensive enough for a "try me first" approach, and should be fairly self-explanatory to install. Just make sure to pay close attention as to how the linkages relate to each other. Just remove the four screws, and swap the part (mind the aluminum threads). There are other possible problems, but this is a "9 outta' 10" fix. Let us know if this helps

 

Carb? What car are we talking about??

 

As for the A/C problem, I'd look for an "idle compensation solenoid", which would also be with the linkages of the carb. It'll be a small "push/pull" device with a wire or two going to it. With the ignition "on", crack-open the throttle a bit, and have someone operate the A/C controls. You should see a small plunger moving in time to the A/C compressor clicking. It's purpose is to increase the idle slightly to compensate for the drag of the compressor.

If it's not operating, check for voltage with a meter or test-light. If you have juice, the solenoid should be the culprit. You can replace it yourself, but you'll probably want to hit the Haynes/Chilton rack to get the adjustment correct...

 

I gathered we were talkin' about the Merc wagon, but I don't recall precisely when FoMoCo embraced the "Dark Side" of F/I. When it comes down to the Nintendo digi-twidget stuff, I can usually muddle through my own problems, but things get a bit too specific for me to be much help here...

 

Lol my engine is EFI as for A/C there isn't any problem with it just the fact if you have it on before you start the car the engine will stall because it's trying to spin the compressor along with other stuff on a cold start I was just saying for reference. I'm so glad though my engine isn't carbed don't get me wrong I like a carb on a old rod or even two on top of a charger but i personally wouldn't downgrade a EFI engine to one.

I think I'll try my multimeter on the idle air and tps sensors as suggested, but I'm probably also do for a new cap, rotor, plugs, and wires as well.

Also I might seafoam the sucker and post up a vid of me smoking the whole neighborhood out lol!

 

If the idle is going up and down...almost dies and then races up again...it's one of those I mentioned but can't remember which.

 

<blush, blush>...While I'm not too-far over the hill to concede the obvious advantages of integrated EFI management, I guess I'm just still attached to propulsion that responds to old-school "poke it with a stick" t'shooting. I dearly love seeing systems working at their theoretical best, but until they figure-out how to squeeze an Artoo astro-mech 'droid into my "alpha-bag" tool-kit, I'll still enjoy what's left of the analog world.

If anybody needs any tips, like how to stutter the "contact" magneto-switch to clear the carbon out of a radial engine, y'all know where to find me.. ..

Edit...I can also share some tips on how to properly stitch-and-dope patches on linen wing coverings (mono-planes...bah, humbug)...