I'm being a bit of a perfectionist, this hasn't stranded me yet, but anyway: Since I bought my 1990 panther-body wagon last spring, I've been doing lots of work. It now has a new battery (old one read 12.5 volts, but lost charge sitting on its own...), new starter (probably not entirely necessary it turned out, but, new one does turn faster!), a new fuel filter, and a general tune up (plugs, rotor cap and wires, air filter). Also did the PCV valve and filter and valve cover gaskets last Sunday. All those things have definitely improved performance. It has more power on the highway, accelerates faster, and when it used to miss a little/ stall going uphills at highway speeds on occasion, it has never done once. Just changing the fuel filter alone did that, I think. A day after changing the water pump a month and a half ago, I was running an errand to a friend's house and, pulling out, had the car just stop in the middle of the street after backing out 20 feet. The engine simply shut off, check engine light came on. I started it again, it stalled out again, also a few seconds later. Thinking it was the battery, I jumped it, seemed to work again: though in retrospect I don't think the jump had anything to do with it (I'd misunderstood the problem: if it stalled AFTER starting, it couldn't have been the battery). Another time while visiting DC, it took several starts to start up (starter motor was cranking, engine just never got running on its own), and then finally it started but real rough, until we made it out of our parking spot and up to speed, and it smoothed right out. Then this past weekend, even with my new starter motor and battery, again I started it, the motor ran for just seconds but there was no doubt it was running, then simply quit. The check engine light and battery light came on. I turned it off, started it up again, then drove it 160 miles home without further issue. And it's still not uncommon to need to turn the key a couple times to get the engine to start. It actually just now occurred to me: you know how when you turn the key part way and the pump primes the engine? My habit has always been just to turn the key all the way to ignition in one smooth motion. Do I just need to give it a couple seconds to prime the engine with fuel, some times? That would explain why the 2nd or 3rd attempt at ignition works, and *maybe* why it would start the engine and then stall out again (if it were running a few seconds on fumes from when I killed the engine last, and the fuel pump hadn't yet gotten fresh fuel to it). I'm being a bit of a perfectionist. If at first it stalls out, just turn the ignition again, and perhaps a third time, and it's worked. I haven't been stranded yet. But I'm curious Should I make a habit of giving the fuel pump a few moments before turning the key the rest of the way to ignition? I've never had to do that on the 2 other cars that I drove regularly before this car. Or should I start to think about a fuel pump project when I have a solid weekend to spare?
Things that are intermittent like that make me think there might be a ground issue. But then a failing electrical part, like a voltage regulator or fuel pump is still an electrical issue. Maybe start by checking for corrosion or loose connections from the battery, and at the fuel pump. And then there are a bunch of sensors that can get dirty too, like the O2. Maybe you can take it somewhere and get it scanned for error codes.
Bernard, stay on the chase. Sounds like you're winning. As far as I recall, the only cars that you waited for the electric fuel pump to stop clicking, before you turned the key, were the 1960's British cars. They back-drained into the gas tank, when shut off, because of the downdraft Stromberg carbs. Newer Fords don't/shouldn't do that. I think Andy's advice is spot on. Luckily our older Fords only have 3 codes - Fuel, Spark, Air.
codes are a good idea. Do you know of any chain shop (or Maryland shop) that DOESN'T charge $100 just to pull codes? Or where do I just buy an OBDI reader?
I just tried a half dozen stores and shops (autozone, salvo, advance; Monro, Huffs, Hollenshades, someone else). Either they don't sell and OBD1, don't have it, or do have it but want $100 just to read the codes.
Wow and I thought Winnipeg is out in the boonies.... I'd hate to live in a backwoods place like Baltimore.
If you are going to buy a code reader....be sure and check out exactly what it will...and won't...read. If you try and go cheap you may find that it only reads certain codes. Do you have a FSM? If so, check it...there MAY be a way to read some codes on your car through the inherent system.
alright, there are these two (when I asked autozone and advance auto about the specific part #s, THEN they found them): http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...er&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=2396_0_0_ http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...Vehicles-Actron_9090231-P_N3389_T|GRP2018____ Now, I've never read OBDI before, and only used an OBDII scanner just once. I plug it in (where is the terminal?), and count the flashing lights, and match them up to a database that I'll find in the shop manual? Just to be clear: the check engine light is not on at present, and goes off once I get the engine running again. So will the scanner still pick up stored codes, or, will it only work while the check engine light is on?
The check engine light IS on if the key is on and the car is not running. It will go out after the car is started...providing it is running alright. AutoZone isn't the only game in town. Check around with mechanics and see which one they are using. If you can't do that....read the sheet that comes with the reader before buying and make sure it says that it reads ALL the codes without having to buy supplements.
