1957 country sedan build

Discussion in 'Cosmetic & Restoration' started by 1930artdeco, Apr 21, 2021.

  1. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Well-Known Member

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    I will try that tip, thanks. Running my finger across the wear spot, it is smooth and no noticeable ridge or height difference. So, I am going to mic the journals and order new rod bearings and she should be good to go with new head in October. By early next year, I should be able to fire her up!

    Mike
     
  2. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Well-Known Member

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    Well I checked all of the rod journals and found the crank to have been turned once. If I read the numbers correctly she is about 12 under now. I have one side of the diff brakes installed, I just need to repair the parking brake system to get the spring compressed enough to finish the brakes and install the drums. Still trying to find a lower drivers side control arm.

    Mike
     
  3. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Well-Known Member

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    I had a productive weekend finally on Betty-well mostly productive. Got her shocks installed (giant pain in the butt and I didn't have the tank in), Got all the rod bearings changed out but I would like to order new rod nuts and then the bottom end will be done and ready to button up. She will need a new bottom end in about 5k judging from the top rod bearing, the crank is worn just enough that the clearances a on the loose side. But she will run fine for what I need right now. The new water pump is installed, so now the engine just needs new heads, fuel pump and carb rebuilt and she should be good to go! The steering components are at the re-builder awaiting their turn now. I have a new lower A arm that I am going to finish up this week and hopefully install the following week.

    I finished the front half of the parking brake system but could not get the cables hooked up because the new reproduction adjusting rod I bought is about 6" to short compared to the original. I think that once I get an original in there I will be all set to finish that part and then finish the rear brakes-and then I hope to put the rear drums on!!!!!! I also installed the new MC and am just waiting to get the long line in, then the brake system will be done and I can fill her up. Question, the MC did not come with a clip to hold the push rod in the piston like the original one did. I s that normal now? It isn't going anywhere I know but was just curious.

    Mike
     

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  4. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Well-Known Member

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    I am going to try a set of 66 T Bird parking cables to see if they work. I am thinking that something is wrong with the set I got. The springs that go inside the drum are much shorter than the 57 set that I ordered. So I will check next week to see if everything lines up. Now I am just prepping my lower control arm for paint and new bushings and ball joint. Then she will be ready to go in along with the rest of the suspension.

    Mike
     
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  5. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Well-Known Member

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    They are in!!!! I hope I put the front springs in correctly. I really really don’t want to do that again any time soon. Now I am off to installing the shocks and steering components next.

    mike
     

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  6. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Well-Known Member

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    PS steering components are getting new bushings as I apparently had them installed backwards. Got new KYB shocks that fit like a glove without modification (KYB 4752). Dropped the heads off at the shop and will pick them up next month along with a 'new cam'-actually a regrind. So things are coming along slowly but they are moving.

    Mike
     
  7. OrthmannJ

    OrthmannJ Always looking for old ford crew cabs

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    Slowly but surely.
     
  8. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Well-Known Member

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    If at first you don’t succeed, use a bigger F’ing tool! Got the distributor out-not happy about how I did it but it is out and in one piece. Also buttoned up the passenger side brakes.

    Mike
     

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  9. kevdupuis

    kevdupuis Membrane

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    I take it the distributor seal was glued to the block.
     
  10. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Well-Known Member

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    Yep. I could not twist it by hand at all and that was with the tie down bolt out. I tried tapping-very gently with a hammer to see if it would budge-nope. Oil filter strap wrench-nope. When I got it out I looked inside and saw a bunch of sludge which glued the dizzy to the block. Now I just need to sand the marks smooth and it will look good as new.
     
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  11. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Well-Known Member

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    I temp installed the PS components today and it looks like everything is going to function properly. I just need to know how to tell which long tie rod goes on which side? I know they are marked left and right but I don’t know which number goes on which side.

    mike
     

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  12. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Well-Known Member

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    Well….I was going to give Tim McMaster my cam as a core when I pick up the heads next month. Now I am going to give home the whole engine instead. Went to pull the cam out and it jammed up on me. Looked at the lifters, nope all down, looked around a bit more and found that the center cam bearing came out cock eyed. And in more than one piece I think. Sooooo, the engine is going in. I wasn’t planning on doing a total rebuild of the power train yet. But I guess I am.

    mike
     
  13. OrthmannJ

    OrthmannJ Always looking for old ford crew cabs

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    Clearly the car had other plans.
     
  14. kevdupuis

    kevdupuis Membrane

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    Beats having to pull it once the car is all back together.
     
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  15. 1930artdeco

    1930artdeco Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, sure beats it completely grenading out in the middle of nowarsville.
     

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