Don't do it! UNLESS, it's the vinyl and plastic parts, then use SEMS. For fabric, you'd be better off removing it and taking the parts to a pro or getting an old wringer-washer and using a product from RIT. I used SEMS on the carpet in mine, and after a year the dye shows the original goldish colour. I did my door panels with the velour pleats from the seats and they hold up fine, but the velours is bristly, not soft. I'll be watching for replacements or send them out for new material. SEMS is EXCELLENT on the plastic and vinyl trim though.
The SEMS seemd the way to go when I asked about the interior plastics. The RIT dye is probably a no go since the interior is now burgandy and I want a light/medium gray. I spent the day gutting the interior. Used two bottles of Fabrise and it still smells like mouse piss in there. It's getting better though. Went to the local do it yourself auto salvage yard today looking for the dash pad. What I took off is better then anything I saw there. I forgot how much fun redoing an old car is. :banghead3:
Its one of the few chunks of time, where the wife let's you live in peace! You can focus on a stubborn issue, and they want you to fix it, so they can go shopping! Mine, however, does have some mechanical knowledge, luckily not on American cars. You know what works really good is the Bissel Steam Carpet machine, if you can find one. The concentrates that they use are really good to get upholstery clean, deeeeep down. You can borrow mine.
I just did my vinyl and plastics with SEM, GMC-Black. The type of luster I got looks like my stuff is leather!, It looks awesome!!But does not at all match original so if your need to match other panels that are staying original then you should make samples first., Since I did every panel I like it so much it.NOTE: I did not yet put on the Low Luster clear coat and I don't think I will. I figure touch ups from bumps and bangs will repair easier and I like the look. I also did my headliner from brown to black and I put it on too heavy when I first tried it.It dried looking blotchy and it has to be practically be dusted on coat by coat to best have unifrom flat leather luster. I tried to cover the blotchy spraying it on heavier and made it worse. KEEP that can 8 inches away and vent the area for all that floating overspray. Go to the SEM website they have Vinyl softeners for better adhesion etc etc. Do NOT scotch-brite when you clean prep. ArmorAll needs to be wiped off with a smooth cloth first then you can scuff with a scotch-brite after. I tried RIT Dye on a sample area, it is a whole diffierent approach. I didn't like it. I hope I'm on subject here
Thanks Homestar! When I' ready I'll be doing all the interior plastic so the perfect color match wont be a problem. I'm probably going to be making fiberglass door panels as per some great stuff on UTube. Still lots of dreaming but it's all comming together.
