292 rebuild

Discussion in 'General Automotive Tech' started by Grizz, May 16, 2017.

  1. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    I stand corrected--the 230 was what I was thinking of. And, if the fault shows to be in the head, check the valvetrain also. If anything happened to the camshaft, it means pulling the engine anyway. But for now, if it is a burnt or bent valve only, just fix it, mill the head clean, and reassemble it.
     
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  2. ModelT1

    ModelT1 Still Lost in the 50's

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    I agree. A basic refresh can be done in frame for not much cost or work. My last stovebolt six was in my 1933 Chevy sedan. One of the few Chevrolet's with free wheeling.
    No, not free willie. :biglaugh:
    Some Chrysler products and GM tried free wheeling in the early 30's. Not practical and unsafe at any speed. Or was that Corvairs?:slap:
     
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  3. Grizz

    Grizz Are we there yet???

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    Well folks, its late spring and the chicks are still hatching!! You mean to tell me I can do these rings without pulling the motor?! This never even crossed my mind...:slap::dancing: I remember reading "grapes of wrath" when they go to the junk yard for crank bearings I think? They do the whole job with a couple of wrenches in a few hours... and then take the 5/8 when they leave. This definitely helps since I was waiting on a donor engine hoist!!! Boy do I appreciate this forum. Since having the kids the only adults I interact with are the "non-puppets" on Sesame Street!!
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2017
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  4. Poison_Ivy

    Poison_Ivy Dogzilla Fan

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    In the old days, they used to rebuild the entire engine, while still in the vehicle. The frames were often designed with the crossmember out of the way, so that you could drop the pan. The wick seals could be installed into the rear main without having to separate the trannie from the engine.
    If worse comes to worse, you could do cylinder #5 within the vehicle. Question is, why is only that cylinder failing and the others not? What compression readings are you getting for the remaining 5?
     
  5. ross

    ross Well-Known Member

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    Proper diagnosis first, if it's a burned or bent valve you might get by with just a valve job and not even need to remove the motor. A flat cam lobe could also cause you to lose compression.
    I agree with those who've said not to bother with another engine(which ain't likely to be a cherry either) but to just fix what you have. It's not as if you need the vehicle every day.
    That engine is as simple as they get and ought to be dirt cheap to overhaul if needed. Even if it needs to over bored how much can six pistons for this thing cost?
     
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  6. Poison_Ivy

    Poison_Ivy Dogzilla Fan

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    From the 194 c.i.d. to the 292, they were always reliable. I've never heard of them losing compression. However, the 292 would be most likely to suffer, being that it has to put up with the highest piston speed within the entire series. After generations of service and possible lengthy periods of non-service, it could be a stuck valve problem, if the engine has low milage and has sat idly for too long. Simple varnish could seize a valve stem. Back in highschool, I rebuilt a 283 for use in my '56 Chevy. We had soome tool which would go into the bronze valve guide and cut a spiral groove, to take up clearance. After the first start, a valve seized, after warm-up and I ended up having to replace the rocker.
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2017
  7. ross

    ross Well-Known Member

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    Yep, "knurling" the guides. It raises a bit of bronze to tighten up the stem/valve clearance but since only a small portion of the guide is in contact it's a short term solution, at best. For the work involved and the near nil price of guides it doesn't make sense these days.
     
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  8. Poison_Ivy

    Poison_Ivy Dogzilla Fan

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    If the guides are beyond tolerance, they've got to get replaced, in any case. I never kept track on how many miles I've gotten from that particular engine. But, I used that car on a daily basis and never had problems, after that. I wouldn't recommend knurling, when severe use plays a role, though.
     
  9. Grizz

    Grizz Are we there yet???

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    That’s right. I still haven’t solved the issue. I did however move the truck from the yard to a gravel pad next to the garage (almost done!!) the other day I pulled the valve cover and plugs and soaked everything down with kroil. While I was doing this a question materialized in the empty space between my ears. Could an exhaust valve be burned due to the almost non existent exhaust after the manifold??? Like cold air is being sucked back towards the valves? Or am I just making stuff up?!
     
  10. Poison_Ivy

    Poison_Ivy Dogzilla Fan

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    I heard that running an engine without a manifold wasn't good for the exhaust valves. It had to do with cold air warping the stems or similar
    He could simply pull those side covers and do a visual inspection of the cam lobes. If they aren't that far flattened, he'd still get compression, if the rings and valves are fine. We used to pour a little oil into the ailing cylinder. If compression didn't get better, it was always a burnt valve at fault
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2019
  11. Grizz

    Grizz Are we there yet???

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    I pulled the back side cover and all the pushrods and lifters were moving about the same distance. BUT, I noticed some pushrods spinning slightly. Maybe I should check the clearances? Next I’ll do the air test silver Twinkie suggested. And soak cylinders with oil and redo the test. As soon as the weather gets to a low of 65 I can epoxy the floor and buy a lift and get down to business properly! Sure wish I could share some pics with y’all.....
     
  12. Poison_Ivy

    Poison_Ivy Dogzilla Fan

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    The pushrods are supposed to be turning
     
  13. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

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    Same with the tappets and valves; this is to even out wear. The pushrods that are spinning, you can assume the cam lobes are in profile and the tappets are not collapsed.
     

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