Distributor question

is it possible for my engine to run if the plug wires are off - by this I mean #1 is where #8 goes - etc. I paid someone to replace the intake in 2014 and it has run ok - but I have time now so I decided to check to see if I could get it to run better. The idle is erratic and varies by about 150 RPM. I reset the timing from 0 to 10 Deg BTDC and noticed the wiring did not look correct. Also and recommendations on a good aftermarket replacement distributor - looking for reliability / hotter spark / better starting - it is going in my wagon and more power would be welcome but I do not want to add anything to the engine bay - new coil would be OK...

Here is the diagram I used...

https://www.google.com/search?q=1972...9m97fInv0yM%3A

Thanks

 

I forget what engine you have........

 

The diagram's for a '72 Chev. Yes, if the dizzy was dropped in one tooth off, sometimes doofuses will move the wire ends one tower over, depending on which way they went off. But you can correct the problem-- when the #1 cyl is on TDC on the compression stroke, you set the dizzy body so the vacuum nipple points at #2 cylinder, and the rotor tip points at #1 cylinder. You may have to use a long screwdriver to set the oil pump drive rod so the slot engages the rotor tip inside the gear without monkeying with it or having someone bump the starter to get it to drop in. That's likely why the dizzy's a tooth off. Impatient dorks. And while I'm on the subject, it is possible for a carbed engine to run with the dizzy 180* out.

 

Sorry - 350 GM

 

Check for vacuum leaks too.

 

18436572, clockwise rotation.
I've seen 5 & 7 crossed with little difference.
Your surging idle tells me to look for vacuum leaks.

 

That's a second. The throttle shafts are a likely place, as well as the idle mixture screws. And as far as a newer electronic ignition, just do an HEI. Simplest conversion, cheap parts galore. And the wires are in the same places, the dizzy drops into the engine the same way as the points dizzy. You just need a 14 GA. wire from the ignition to power it; I'd salvage one from an HEI car.

 

Get a factory HEI and plugs to match. If you have the tapered 5/8th's plugs already just get 75-76 HOT chevy plugs. AC or autolites. If you still have the flat bottomed 13/16's style plugs for use with the HEI use a plug for 75-76 oldsmobile. Gap is no prob with the olds plug and they work GREAT.

And YES someone probably put the dist in 1 tooth off and compensated by moving them one tower one way or the other. As long as #1 is where it was dropped in at and all wires are where they belong it will run just fine but will f-up the next guy who tries to work on it namingly YOU!

 

Also guys remember with the points style ya always gotta SET the points , Then the dwell. a lot don't know how to do all that. could even be a leak in the diaphragm for the vacuum advance.. That's why I always convert to HEI when possible.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I have a Pertronix unit in the dizzy now. Qjet was rebuilt by a guy recommended on the Chevelle forum. I will check for vacuum leaks - never thought of the vacuum advance - great tip. Any recommendations on how to adjust the idle mixture screws? They are difficult to get to and keep your arms out of the fan...

 

I use an old Snap-On tune-up screwdriver with a spring shaft that has an end for slotted screws, one socket for Q-Jet idle mix screws , and a hex wrench for the points. You can stand off to the side and adjust the idle mixture screws without burning your hand or getting too close to the fan. Do a Google search for a "Flex Shaft Carburetor Adjuster" and they'll show up.

 

On the carb.Generally run them in all the way with the engine OFF(be carefull and do NOT run them in hard at the bottom) them back them out 1 and 1/4 turns each. Should generally be a very slight adj after that. On the dist If you do NOT have a vacuum pump I have always checked with a finger. Take the dist cap off carefully move the vacuum advance shaft rod/assembly to the pulled in position(these are stiff lil buggars) wet your naked finger and put it on the vacuum hose attachment (where the vac hose goes to carb directly on the unit no hose attached) This can be very hard to hear so ya gotta be close release the shaft in back of vac adv and then pull off the finger. you should hear a lil Pffft sound from the stored vacuum do this a couple times to be sure. if it iis in excellent to perfect shape it will actually HOLD the vacuum shaft until you release it.

Backyard mechanics 101

 

Thanks wagon Keller I'll definitely take your advice great tip on how to check the vacuum advance.

 

Wagonkiller's point about setting points goes back to the trouble that Slidemanic was having with his Ford wagon: you set the point gap, then adjust for dwell, getting it to the high end of the scale, usually 30* for V8 engines, and then once started and running, check/set base timing, all in that order. This should be done about every 6,000 miles, and points replaced every other check (12,000 miles). And having an ignition file is a good thing to have if you're prematurely burning points.

 

Remember, a change in dwell will change base timing, but a change in base timing will not change dwell.