Have removed fuse to stop this horn blowing. At first it occured last winter, spontaneously at night twice about two months apart. Removed fuse and next morning replaced and horn didn't start blowing again. I really need some imediate help with clues to solution. Thought it might posssibly have something to do with the Horn Relay which I've been unable to locate. All help will be greatly appreciated!
The horn relay is in the convenience center, inconveniently placed by the steering column on the left side, behind the column access panel. There should be three black relays on the center. I am not sure which one is which. You should be able to touch them and actuate the horn button. You should be able to feel it actuate. It could be the buttons in the airbag. If they are broken, you can replace them (rigged) with momentary contact switches from your local electronics supplier.
Yeah, I would assume it was something to do with the basics, like a broken spring that gives resistance to the 'button' you push to activate the horn. Assuming this is your wheel, looks like your horn switch contacts are internal to the air bag. Be VERY careful.......
I have removed numerous airbags with the power on or off. I have yet to have one go off. The FSM says to disconnect the battery for about 2 minutes before attempting to remove the airbag. When it is removed, a bar shorts the leads for the airbag, and allows it to be removed safely.
To Fred, and others who gave me advice. Thanks all for the help. I dodged the issue of a "real repair" to this by rigging up a push button horn which solved my immediate problem. Having explored costs and availability of parts, I'm reluctant to try to use some of the fixes that have been suggested. This isn't because I don't think they're valid, but due to my lack of confidence in getting the job done without accidentally setting off the airbag. Was in a serious wreck about twenty years ago involving another car that pulled out of a median in front of me on I-10 in Ala. Because of the exceedingly small impact angle due to my efforts to avoid T-Boning the other car my airbag didn't deploy until my vehicle caromed off the other and hit a dirt bank about ten feet high head on. Thanks to the shoulder harness and mainly the air bag which deployed I survived. If I accidentally set the airbag off, I expect if I could find a replacement, I couldn't afford it and as the Wagon is my wifes I don't know if I could survive the verbal tirade that would result when I told her she would have to operate without an airbag!
Yeah, no matter how careful anyone handles an airbag, with the problems coming to light lately, it's better to be safe than sorry. But if you do decide to replace it, let me know. I'll walk you through a handling procedure that, while you could lose a couple fingers, at least you won't end up with an AB-shaped dent in your head.
If my wife makes me do the job right, I'll consider letting you guide me in how to do it. Seems to me as if there might be a problem getting the GM airbag if I wanted to replace it. What about after market airbags? Anyway I hope to avoid having to replace it. Thanks for the offer, I'm making a note to myself in case I end up replacing it.
There are no aftermarket airbags. The only way you can get another airbag is from a donor car. I know where a red one is. The price is about $100 plus shipping. You can get paint to match the interior. The horn buttons may even work. My first inclination is to check the relay. Usually the horn buttons stop working, and will not allow you to blow the horn.
This seems to be a common complaint as these wagons age. I've noticed my 95 horn is very touchy -- just a brush of the hand across the airbag can sound the horn. I wonder if the problem is related to the plastic (vinyl?) cover stiffening and shrinking with age. As I understand it, heat can eventually draw the plasticizers out of vinyl. Some cleaners (like Armor-All) apparently make it worse. I've been thinking about using something like Meguier's vinyl and rubber conditioner, baby oil or lanolin to see if it will soften and restore the cover. Any opinions or suggestions?
All plastics are subject to loss of plasticizers due to heat and even UV light will harden some over time. The shrinking of the plastic could be the cause of the horn sensitivity, as well as the switch being displaced internally. There have been a number of solutions presented in some of the other B-body forums; ISSF, and Longroof forum. The 94-96 wagons, as well as the 91-93 Caprice have in the airbag horns. The 91-93 RMs, and 91-92 OCCs have external buttons, but they are also known to break readily. The OCC buttons are probably the least likely to break, but they only fit the Olds steering wheels of that era. I have installed aftermarket steering wheels on my cars to eliminate the horn issues, and I am not fond of the airbags either, so it also eliminates them. There are numerous steering wheels that look better than the OEM wheels, and they are not difficult to install.
I have a '94 Roadmaster wagon with the horn stuck on. Do you know if an early '70s Buick sport wheel would be a bolt on?
Most columns that the Grant steering wheel adapter for the 80s will fit are basically the same as the 91-96 B body columns. If it fits, the wheel will fit the RM column. The installation of a non airbag wheel, will require the removal of the clock spring. You may also need a "filler" to take up the gap between an older wheel, and the column bezel. If you remove the clock spring, you need to put a 10 W 2 ohm resistor across the leads of the yellow wire under the dash. You can use two 10 W 4 ohm resistors in parallel if you can not find the 2 ohm units. The wheel, or adapter must be able to use the connector for the horn that goes through the base. I have used adapters and installed Nardi, and MOMO wheels on my cars. They are relatively easy to install, and look really nice. The only issue is with the Grant style adapter bezel. It hits the tangs that hold the clockspring and the tangs must be removed. Some of the adapters have the hole for the horn connector in the wrong place and you have to modify them. NRG makes a standard height adapter, and it works well with the shallow dish steering wheels. The concern that you need to address is the distance between the steering wheel, and the turn signal stalk. If you are too far, or close, it will be uncomfortable.
Thanks for the reply! I'm not sure what the clock spring is (yet!). Does the 2 ohm resister have something to do with the operation of the air bag circuit? edit - Now I know what the clock spring is! I didn't know the old style copper contacts were also called clock springs. (learn something new every day!)
