Easy tips for shadetree mechanics

Speaking of Harbor Freight and ball joints....
A pickle fork is simply the wrong tool for the job with ball joints and tie rod ends. I will never use one again since I found this tool:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
Works absolutely amazing in only a few seconds.

 

Spray paint. Best results with a rattle can is to run the can under hot water for a couple of minutes. Take care to dry the can well. The paint goes on much better warm. Check it out next time you paint.

 

That's one I use, and when I'm painting an engine and its tinware and bracketry, I use brake cleaner to remove all oils, then I fire up the MAPP gas torch and warm up the engine and pieces, then I apply two thin coats. The warmth makes the solvent evaporate faster and promotes a better adhesion. The paint on my Chero's 351W has yet to flake off. I think...maybe I should go take a look. Then, where you have to put gaskets on, carb cleaner in a rag will remove the paint where you want to remove it.

 

Yup to the above and to ad to this, if warm water is not available just leaving the rattle can in the sun does the same trick. In colder weather yet sunny placing a rattle can on the dash inside the car with the sun bearing down works also.

As for junk yards I all ways bring my stash of cordless power tools, my favorite even in the drive way is my Dewalt 18 volt impact gun faster and 9 out of 10 times just as good as air tools with no air hose to put away after.

 

I completely forgot about these until at work today I needed one and went to my tool van for one, and I can't count how many times I've used them on cars rather than the swivel socket just because of how painless they are compared to a swivel BUT it is a 6 of 1 compared to a 1/2 dozen of the other when it comes to witch one will work better for the application.


1/4 and 3/8 drive, I've yet to find a 1/2 drive but the 3/8 works well with a 1/2 socket adaptor.

A flexible black sleeve lets you hold the extension that is free of the working extension itself weather you use air, by hand, or cordless impact gun but no matter what you do need your other hand holding it in place as compared to the old school swivel. Lengths vary, I keep 8", 12", 16", and 20" inch lengths, they are also available to accept screw bit drivers. I also have 2, 10" and 16" inch ones with a ridged flex ( bend it to shape and it will stay but you still need to hold it with your other hand). I can't remember what I paid for them years back but they were cheep and I still se them in auto part stores.

Another cheep thing, why hand ratchet if you don't have to? Don't ya just HATE that one bolt with no clearance for a ratchet or as in my case I'm just plain lazy even if the bolt is rite in front of my face! Just about everyone has a cordless drill today ( if not a cordless impact) so get some adaptors for your socket set........................


1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drive and you can normally get all 3 in a pack for $5. You still may need to break and tighten after but in general it = no more ratcheting.

 

If you are trying to get a tough bolt off, and do not have a breaker bar with you, get a 19mm/3/4" box end wrench and put it over the end of the wrench (combination box/open end) that fits the bolt, or over the ratchet end, to make an extension. The box end of the extending wrench must fit over the end of the ratchet, or hook it on the end of the open end of the combination wrench. I have loosened numerous bolts and nuts this way. Always look for sharp edges in the plane of rotation and 3 inches left and right, because sometimes the bolt/nut let go suddenly, and you end up donating blood and skin.

I like to use my flex head ratchet when removing tough TORX bolts, because you can angle the handle so that you are in the same plane as the head of the bolt. You do not put angular torque on the bit. It works on conventional head bolts too, so the socket does not twist and slip off of the head.

When removing a mechanical fan, loosen the bolts with the fan belt under tension. The belt effectively locks-up the fan, so that it does not rotate. A second option if you have already removed the belt is to put a second wrench on another nut, and use another one or the shaft to brace against the pressure from the first wrench. Loosen all the nuts before you completely remove them.

When you are separating fluid lines in tight spaces with screw together fittings (oil cooler, fuel fittings, brake lines), put the wrenches on the two "nuts" so that you can squeeze them with one hand (or both). You avoid twisting the lines by putting even pressure on both sides. If you do not have a strong grip, get a friend who can crush beer cans to assist you. Invest in a set of butterfly sockets, and you will never round off a line nut again (I have literally stood on a breaker bar to break one loose, and the nut did not show any damage when removed).

When removing large hoses, after removing the hose clamp, twist the hose on the fitting with a channel lock pliers until it rotates easily, it will slip off with a lot less effort. You may have to work a little at a time starting at the end of the fitting.

 

Interesting tip on the butterfly sockets. I had never heard of those before.

 

Expensive but one of the neatest tool I have in my box. I use them on all metal fittings that they fit. You can get bigger ones for larger applications.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/E-Z-Red-But...:g:N0MAAOSwA4dWG98i&item=331679939707&vxp=mtr

 

I like that design, and cannot figure out why the big tool companies won't buy or pay royalties on the design and just sell them to us? Breaking a fastener loose on the flats is far better.

 

Maybe the owner of the patent will not sell rights to produce them to the big tool companies. I think E-Z Red is the patent owner.

 

That's possible.