Sticky gas pedal in 96 century

Discussion in 'General Automotive Tech' started by AshTray900, Jul 8, 2015.

  1. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Messages:
    131
    Likes Received:
    8
    Trophy Points:
    62
    Wagon Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Madison, MS
    the gas pedal seems to have notches where it gets hard and I have to press harder and it pops and then drops and gives me more power than I need.

    throttle seems to move smooth with engine off and with engine one it seems to move smooth to a point where I don't want to rev it anymore, ive also sprayed the pedal mechanism. any ideas, this setup is fairly common in all 90s gm cars throttle body is similar in 3400 also, mines a 3100
     
  2. 101Volts

    101Volts Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2013
    Messages:
    3,029
    Likes Received:
    292
    Trophy Points:
    198
    Wagon Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    Did you try spraying Seafoam Deep Creep on the throttle body? I know you said you sprayed a "pedal mechanism" and I'm not quite sure what you mean by that.
     
  3. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Messages:
    131
    Likes Received:
    8
    Trophy Points:
    62
    Wagon Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Madison, MS
    I used wd40 on the upper parts of the petal where the metal linkage is. I also sprayed it on the outside of the throttle body, should I spray something through the mass air sensor??? Don't want to damage it. Petal seems ok when car is not running. It's like the suction from the intake is binding it maybe
     
  4. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2014
    Messages:
    14,984
    Likes Received:
    2,993
    Trophy Points:
    720
    Location:
    New Braunfels, TX
    NO! The throttle body is not the same as the MAF sensor, and you DO NOT want to get ANY lubricant on the MAF's hot wire sensor element. Take the time to remove the air box lid, MAF sensor and intake air tube, so you can get into the upper plenum's throttle body. Take a rag and spray carb cleaner on it, then open the throttle plate manually and use the rag to scrub the carbon off the throttle bore and the throttle plate. Do your best to be thorough. Don't get ambitious and attempt to remove the throttle body; it's a bit complicated and a mother%&king b!tch to put back together correctly.
     
  5. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Messages:
    131
    Likes Received:
    8
    Trophy Points:
    62
    Wagon Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Madison, MS
    my mass air sensor is a part of the throttle body I think, it is not in the neck of the tube, as soon as I pull the neck off I see the metal screen with tiny holes, I assume this is the mass air sensor, yes a was pretty sure I cannot get anything in it at all! ill try putting a little heavier lubricant on the outside of the throttle on both side and see if it works its way in, it is not so bad as to cause me to want to tear anything apart, I just replaced all tie rods and both ball joints, needless to say ball joints are a total B@#$%!
     
  6. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2014
    Messages:
    14,984
    Likes Received:
    2,993
    Trophy Points:
    720
    Location:
    New Braunfels, TX
    Ball joints have to be that hard, otherwise the lower control arms would wear out, and fast. Not to mention make the steering so sloppy, you'd think you were riding around in the Funhouse. There are all kinds of tools to press them out and in, and all kinds of hand tools to make it easier to use those press tools. OK, so you have the 3800 engine, which I had thought GM didn't use in A-body cars past '94, but oh, well. The problem I'm talking about is not a matter of lubrication, but cleaning built-up carbon that is interfering with the throttle plate. That's why you spray the carb cleaner on the rag and wipe everything around and in the throttle body to remove as much of the carbon as possible.
     
  7. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Messages:
    131
    Likes Received:
    8
    Trophy Points:
    62
    Wagon Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Madison, MS
    3100 engine 96 replacement ball joints bolted on... hmm
     
  8. Silvertwinkiehobo

    Silvertwinkiehobo "Everything that breaks starts with 'F.'"

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2014
    Messages:
    14,984
    Likes Received:
    2,993
    Trophy Points:
    720
    Location:
    New Braunfels, TX
    Sorry, I'm having to go off memory on your car; apparently, everything's different on it. The 2.8L/3.1L/3100/3400/3500 engines I've worked on (and it's a very large number I've worked on) never had the throttle body and MAF body together. That feature I've only seen on the 3300/3800 engines. As for the ball joints, unless they were riveted and you had to punch and drill the rivets, then bolt the new ones in, I've not seen what you're describing.
     
  9. AshTray900

    AshTray900 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2010
    Messages:
    131
    Likes Received:
    8
    Trophy Points:
    62
    Wagon Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Madison, MS
    Punch and drill that's it. And free up seized tie rod end lol. Only I've seen in gm that era was 3100, 3400 and 3800
     

Share This Page