Stalls everytime I stop and now wont idle....

1964 Bel Air wagon

 

Changed the fuel filter today and it didnt look to much different than the new one.


Also I did notice that if I unplug this vacumn line(see pic below) that the car runs smoother. When I plug it back it the idle gets rough. What is the part that the arrow points to??
I did put my finger on the vacumn line and it does have suction.


Even after the fuel filter change it still stalls out.
One thing at a time and I will find what the problem is
Thanks
Bernie

 

Check your timing. If you don't have a timing light or can't make out the marks CAREFULLY loosen up the hold down bolt for the distributer, it won't take much. With the car running very carefully move the distributor just a very little bit one way then the other and see if the idle smooths out. Sounds like the vacuum advance is throwing off your timing. If you have a timing light the proper way to time it is with the vacuum advance disconnected.

 

That line should not pull a vacuum at a idle,, it should increase in vacuum as you increase demand advancing spark as you increase rpm..
At least thats the way I thought it worked? Yes, the vacuum advance is missing up the the timming at a idle because its connected on the wrong port? any other ports available on the base of carb.?

 

In an earlier post I mentioned vacuum leak. That vacuum diaphram could be bad causing a vacuum leak.

That diaphram should hold vacuum. Get a hand vacuum pump, attach it directly to the diaphram on the distrubutor and pump up to about 5-10 hg. It should hold steady. If it bleeds down that vacuum advance mechanism will have to be replaced. Also make sure that vacuum hose is good.

 

Yes you are correct. The vacuum advance of a distributor should be connected to a ported vacuum source, meaning that the port should have no vacuum at idle. The amount of vacuum should increase with the throttle position. Find a port on the carb that has no vacuum at idle but has vacuum when the throttle blades are opened. It would be a good idea to get a foot or so of vacuum line and replace the rubber bits just to be on the safe side. The last time I looked vacuum gauges were realativley inexspensive and I am sure having one would help greatly. Using a vacuum gauge is a great way to adjust a carb too.

Did you look at the fuel pump yet? If it is leaking or weeping fuel it could be a source of problems too.

The fuel filter may have let some crud into the the carb and that could be the problem, the carb you are working on is fairly simple and it should be an easy rebuild. Just take your time and look at all the diagrams you can get your hands on. Take digital pictures of your progress, they make great refernce material to make sure you are putting it back together corectly.

As usual here are a couple of links for you, I think I just hit the motherload for Rochester carb info!

This is an awesome link! Original Delco parts diagrams for Rochester carbs!
http://www.newagemetal.com/pages/Chevrolet/64/index.htm
http://www.newagemetal.com/pages/SpecsAdj/64-71-2G/index.htm
If you want to save these diagrams, right click on the "here" link and select "save link as". I wish I was home I have a ton of old repair manuals and I could tell you exactly which vacuum port is the right one, for some reason I cant find a vacuum diagram online for your car, or any other 2 barrel chevy for that matter.

It could be timing related as well but I would concentrate on the fuel and ignition system first, i.e. new filters and complete tune up (cap, rotor, points, plugs, wires) before looking at anything else like the timing chain.

Upgrading to a HEI or electronic ponits replacement would be a good idea as well. It is fairly simple and would make the car much easier to work on due to the lack of moving mechanical parts. An HEI is a drop in part that would require different plug wires, any HEI with a coil built into the cap would drop right into the stock 283, they were built from 1970-1982 virtually unchanged, just make sure the ignition module has 4 pins. You should be able to pick one up at a junkyard for little to nothing.

Electronic points replacement is a little trickyer as you have to take the original distributor apart and the add the electronics and breaker wheel to the stock distributor. It is not that hard to do but it is not exactly cheap, most kits I have seen go for around $100. The upside to replacing the points with this set up is that it still looks 100% stock and uses the same cap, rotor, and wires. My Dad has one on his 1967 Corvette and it has been on the car for over 10 years and is still working fine, try that with points.

If this is all a little too overwheming let me know, I can break it down even firther if you need me too. I love doing this kind of stuff incase you can't tell.

 

I knew I'd posted about reading vacuum gauges:
http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1707&highlight=Vacuum+Gauge

This is the graphic that was in the Ford V8 Manuals way back then, every possible combo:
http://www.efv8.org/site/index.php?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=43

And there's an article listed in the drop list.

 

Updates?

Any updates on this?

 

Not resolved yet? The oldschool alternative would be the carburettor floats or the internal pump. Don't know if there's a parallel in an FI system, but might generate a pointer by one and all.

 

Sorry thought I posted on here about it.
The stalling has stopped.
I had a different friend come over and he broght the dwell meter and adjuster tool and set that for me. Than he set the timing and than set the air to fuel screws on the carb.
now it doesnt stall at all.
The stalling thing may have also been that my idle screw would vibrate backwards making my idle go way down so I fixed that also.
I dont know either way its fixed, now for the trans.
Its been out of commission since than I am putting a TH350 auto trans in it, getting rid of the 4spd so I can cruise. Shifting that thing was like driving a mac truck or maybe harder.
Thanks
Bernie

 

Glad you got it fixed, Bern! Now get that tranny in there and GO!

 

Ok last tuesday we got the old 4spd out and the used th350 in and trans cooler lines ran but that was it.
We really have limited time to work on it my friend thats helping me works nights so we are doing this around his sleep schedule which is fine by me since labor is free, well I am doing most of the work with his direction. I am trying to learn and do as much as I can.
Today we got the vacumn line ran, we used a brake line and than "T'ed" it off a vacumn line on the carb. We were also able to get some linkage from an 80s caddy to work, well with a little bending here and there but the length was perfect. Also my friends dad made a new bracket to attach to the trans so the linkage didnt bind up.
Get it all where we need to be so we can drive it and what do you know.......
Trans wont shift out of 2nd and it makes some not so good noises.
Called the guy I got it from and he said bring it back and I could swap it with one that he knows for a fact is good. He was cool about it thank god. But he does own a small salvage company so Im sure he doesnt want word to get around that he doesnt keep his word on parts he says are good that turn out bad.
So hopefully next week sometime I can go get the other one drop the bad one put the good one in and be rollin down the road.
I will say Im loving it already. Being able to just get in and reach up put it in gear and not have to worry about shifting. Oh what a feeling. Now if I can just get a good transmission in there. lol
I will keep you guys posted.
Thanks
Bernie