I may have (or not) mentioned that my first car, a '78 Fairmont 2-door sedan, had a 200CID with a RUG 3-speed, but it was a floor shift from the factory. It wouldn't've mattered to me, as I learned how to swizzle a 3-on-the-tree in Driver's Ed (a definite worn-out POS Granada), but oh well.
Its really easy on these, and I'd imagine on some of the earlier Mustang II models (those that used the same mounting system.)
Here's some progress pics. Firstly this was the first day, here, that we hit over 22C (70F) and sunshine! The ground frost went below 8 feet this winter, so I can't install the new portable garage Shelter Augers (our winds run up to 50 miles per hour) that I bought a month ago. But it was nice, a fine breeze too - no sweating. This is how badly out of square it was due to the accident After cutting out the spotwelds and some flattening, I got it straight enough to keep it and refinish. No earth shattering crumples to fix. The green Zephyr rad support is missing the weldnut and installation holes for the hood support. It seems that the luxury models and V8s got it mounted at the front, and the base models and I6s got the hood support mounted ner the shock tower, which explains why there are so few good hoods in the junkyards - they bent on the those base models. - Here's the 2 rad supports. Note the lack of the weldnut on the green donor, next and to the right of that hood bumper. Here's where I cut the driver's side support, below where it mounts into the front rail. These spotweld cutters are the only way you'll have good re-welding metal and remove the unibody sheetmetal clean and useful. The cutters I bought allow the cutting head to flip over and use the fresh cutting teeth. So I paid $15 for two cutters, but actually got 4. Less than Harbor Freight's cutters. You won't cut these welds right out, because they aren't perfect circles, so you need a set of seam busters, and they're worth every bit of the $20. They're tempered steel and they can take a hit. I used a 3 pound mallet and they do get through the spotwelds in short order. I've got some old bedframe iron, which is also heat-treated, and thought about making my own, but these were well-priced, and thicker steel, with a good shock-absorbing handle. Those impacts do give your wrists and hands a bad time. I saw my fingers get all cramped up, a few times, after about 2 hours. I don't think wrapping a roll of black tape around a homemade seam buster would be as good.
- This is the beast that puts the spotweld cutter to the test. There's 4 welds on this side, and 6 on the inside, plus 6 more on the inside, and they're a PITA to get to. That's the front of the main side rail, where the rad support has to get welded back in. A critical piece for this to work right, without pulling the engine, and cutting the rail back at the firewall. It was a fight for sure, but I won! So here it is, with the donor hood on. If you click on my car (left pic), you can see the second bolt hole where I can move the bumper shock back to tuck the bumper closer to the grille. The donor motor might run too. The guy at the yard thought that the owner drove it in, but at least it will be a good mockup to make the header pipes. From that mess of spaghetti. I'm a happy camper.
Roller Painting DIY I was waffling with new paint colours and whether to change to a lacquer metallic paint, over the last few weeks, but I finally committed to stay with the Tremclad (Rustoleum in the USA). I've got to take the old woodgrain off and instead of replacing it, I'll go with an almost stock two-tone colour combo. In Canada, we can get the Tremclad custom-mixed in up to 104 colours, BUT only in their new water-based paint, not the oil-based. So that idea went out. I can't paint the water-based over the oil-based and keep the UVA/UVB protection. I looked at the Interlux Brightsides - Single part Urethane marine paint - awesome paint. But you can't clearcoat it. Costs about half of the better lacquer paints. http://www.yachtpaint.com/can/diy/products/default.aspx http://www.yachtpaint.com/can/diy/products/finishes/search.aspx Check out the video - drooling material - bring a big bib : http://www.eyeinhand.com/Marginalia/2011/06/27/painting-rolling-and-tipping/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo Here's an Aussie who did his car with Brightsides: http://forums.justcommodores.com.au...-tos/76882-diy-painting-your-car-rollers.html For me, I'd have to sand down to the original factory paint. Brightsides won't stick on an enamel based paint. So I looked for guys who have done a nice clearcoat on their Rustoleum/Tremclad paint jobs. Black is a major PITA, just not mine, but these guys really went beyond awesome: This guy's a quick and outdoor job: How to paint your car with Rustoleum. The right way. - YouTube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qPJTTRWttQ Rustoleum Clear Coat Shot Cut and Polished(50 Dollar paint job o yeah) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2FITO4ZrZM He's got a Youtube channel. The truck painting progress vids are at the bottom of the '100 more' at the second row of vids. http://www.youtube.com/user/Mikeandwendy74/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=3 So my colours will be a lighter 'Sand' gloss on all the top surfaces, and below where the woodgrain is, and the same Chestnut brown where the woodgrain is. These colours were stock on the 1980 Granada and Pickups: Here's a pic from the Granada brochure - note how doctored up that is, compared to my neighbour's 1980s Ford Pickup: Only Andy has a spray gun, and I'll try my new cheapo compressor. Might save some time. Otherwise, I'll roll it. And for my fellow Canucks, Yes! Tremclad does sell Gloss ClearCoat, with UVA and UVB protection, just like the US Rustoleum.
Good to see you are working on the wagon Norman. Once you've done your modifications it is going to be a fun car once again. I am sure you have missed not being able to drive it.
Thanks guys. If Environment Canada ever stop hiring Dart players or their grandchildren, we might get weather forecasts that mean something. They forecast almost a half inch of rain for yesterday, and not one drop until about 6:30 this morning. Anyway, despite their Liquid Sunshine boo-boo, I got a lot done disassembling the donor front end. No pics for that mundane stuff. I have so many powertools and accessories for them, that I tend to forget what I have. I thought I had a cheapie buffer/polisher, but I think I burned it out the last time. Anyway, it was something like $30 canuck bucks, from some nameless vendor. Useless. So I found a good site that gives somewhat objective reviews. I also think the guy is hooked up with Autogeek.net because each of his reviews link back to them. Just the same, he does make good points for each, and what grade of user should use them. Of course, we all think that they can't be that hard to grasp, but he does make you consider. http://www.best-auto-detailing-tips.com/ Buffers and Polishers are different beasts. Buffers run at higher revs, and polishers start at 600 to 1000 RPMs and usually up to 3000 RPM. He's got a section on each: http://www.best-auto-detailing-tips.com/auto-buffer.html http://www.best-auto-detailing-tips.com/auto-polisher.html I found that the links didn't work very well to AutoGeek.net. They seem to offer good deals though: In Canada, our retailers are really taking advantage of our devalued dollar. Sometimes its cheaper paying the currency exchange. Here's his review on the one that I'm thinking about: http://www.best-auto-detailing-tips.com/cyclo-polisher.html Here's Autogeek's offer: http://www.autogeek.net/cyclo-polishers.html Here's the company's offer: http://www.perfectpolish.com/cyclo_polisherfor_paint.html Not a whole lot of difference. To me the Cyclo is a buffer because of its speed range. Its well made, in the USA, since 1953, and the parts from the early ones are still available, some are interchangeable. The weight is a few ounces more than the popular Porter Cable buffer. I just made a quick shopping trip to Home Despot and Crappy Tire, and I couldn't find any knock-off pads for either of them (PC or Cyclo), and here in the barren prairie, that means keeping some extra pads and supplies on hand or pay the local gougers. Cyclo for a Buffer, done! Now for polishers, the 600 to 3000 RPM variable-speed units that you use to apply and use compounds on fresh clearcoats, I'm still debating. When you look at them, they remind you of an angle grinder, except they don't have any variable speed controls (1-2-3-4-etc.) But it makes me wonder if I could jig one up. Makita, DeWalt, and other big names offer them. What I've read is that since the application pads are from 6" to 9", you need at least a 4.5 AMP machine. Weighing in about 4.5 to 6 lbs., with a speed range of 600 or 1,000 RPM to 3,000 RPM. We've got a fairly large DIY lumber/tool/construction company (www.rona.ca) who has its own Private brand "Hausmann Tools", but the local stores (4 of them for a population of 700,000), don't carry them. Can't even get a price! My guess is that its in the $50 to $70 range, but it sure looks good, and its 11 lbs! http://www.haussmanntools.com/haussmann/portable-power-tools/grinders-polishers/7-polisher I'm sort of looking at the Makita or the Dewalt units: http://www.autogeek.net/bupo.html The only problem I have is that I'd have to carry two sets of pads and accessories. I might try modifying one of my angle grinders first.
Solved my Polisher dilemma! Just check my tools and dug out my big old 1/2" Black and Decker drill. Then I checked the Cyclo guys' site, and they have a pad kit for 1/2" high torque/low speed drills! http://www.perfectpolish.com/compounding_polisher.html I'll get that for now, and the big Cyclo buffer, once I have the portable garage up. The wagon is gonna look funky for a few weeks. That's the nice thing about this roller paint job, especially with a decent donor car. All the doors will fit, as well as the front end. I'll do the hood and driver fender first, then get her running, so I can use my trailer for the remainder of the house renos. I can restore the doors in the basement shop on rain days, and finish them, then swap them for mine, one at a time. No wind, no wasps, no skitters. The roof and tailgate will get done under the portable garage.
How about a clearcoat for Rustoleum? It bugged me the first time I did this. Turns out that you can use their own brand, instead of a urethane clearcoat or use the regular automotive clearcoat. Not only that, but you can add metal flakes or pearlescent flakes to the clearcoat! Metal Flake was tempting. But not this time. In any case!!!! You have to make the basecoats of Rustoleum or Tremclad (R/T) much harder. Evercoat offers one for Acrylic enamels, which some R/T guys have used but they used Acetone or Penetrol as a reducer, instead of what the R/T paints recommend, Mineral Spirits. I don't think they'll have an easy time of it, if they need to repaint it or do a color change. These paints are Alkyd Enamels, not Acrylic Enamels. The trick for the oil-based Alkyd enamels is using an Alkyd Enamel Drier or Hardener. The scam that's going on in the online vendor sites is a real shame. Two things: Its original trade handle was Japan Drier, made by all kinds of arts paint vendors (a home brewed composition) some of the old companies still call it that, and retail it for under $8.00 a pint at Home Depot (KleanStrip Japan Drier - $7.97 in the USA, not available in Canadian Home Depots). $30 to $40 on Amazon.com or Ebay.com! Even Eastwood is at $42, plus shipping!!!! I just found it here under the Dynamic brand for $4.99 per 8 oz. at RONA.CA, big box DIY retailer, regular $6.99. I'm buying up the 8 bottles they have on hand. That's enough for over 100 quarts of oil-based alkyd paint. Why?!?!, because the Dulux tech/owner here, just told me that oil-based paints and additives will be restricted for consumers in Canada. And from what I read, a lot of US states are also closing the gap. I've got enough to paint my car at least 4 more times, after I repaint the wheelbarrow. LMAO!!! http://www.rona.ca/en/japan-dryer# These guys sell 8 oz. for $15: http://www.doitbest.com/main.aspx?pageid=64&sku=772462 $6.18 (plus shipping) http://www.builderdepot.com/browse.ihtml?step=5&prodstoreid=1901&pid=251649 $11.02 http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3995 US Home Depot (local right? no shipping!) $7.97) http://www.homedepot.com/b/Paint-Pa...Solvents-Cleaners/Klean-Strip/N-5yc1vZc5bmZug These guys sell an Acrylic version for Urethane paints at around $30 to $40, but look at the Pearl and Metal flake powders! They're on Ebay too: http://www.thecoatingstore.com/news/ Gotta go catch a bus. Enjoy.
Found the direct link to the 'Dynamic' brand of that Japan Dryer (Drier in the USA) Canadian company! That's a surprise for me. http://getpainting.com/catalogue/dynamic/familydetail.aspx?catID=E088&cID=1004&FamID=862 Lots of neat stuff there. Mostly specialty finishing chemicals. http://getpainting.com/ Their store locator is only for Canadian Postal Codes. What I do is find an address close to the US Border (about 2 hours south) and then look for a retailer's address and then use that when I'm trying to figure shipping costs. Here's the official Canadian Postal Code Finder: http://www.canadapost.ca/cpo/mc/personal/postalcode/fpc.jsf Somebody in the membership could always reship to you, I think. This Japan Drier stuff is being played like some kind of stockmarket commodity, on the ONLINE sales game. Don't get mad, get even...
Crap, forgot to brag! Instead of the 8 bottles of 120 milliliters (8 oz), at $4.99 each = 960 oz and $40 before taxes, I bought 3 of the 500 ml bottles (32 oz.) at $8.24 each and $25 before taxes. 1,500 ML = 1,920 oz. I can hardcoat a whole fleet of Fairmonts!
And I have a real treat for anyone who's thinking about restoring their wagon. This series of articles is loaded with details from cleaning your spray gun and filtering your paint, to body work and paint stripping. Its worth more than a quick scan. I've done 5 of my own cars, over the years, and I always knew I missed some details in prepping. This guy didn't miss a trick! http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm Each step is in the menu on the left hand side. Pics galore coincide with the text.
Another nice warm day (16C) 64 F. Got the passenger fender off, front aluminum bumper and bumper shocks off the donor. I can start final marking, measuring, and cutting for the sheet metal I need and drill out more rivets. Just finished with daylight wrapping up about 9:00 PM. And tomorrow's even warmer (close to 70F). We're dipping down to 33F tonite. Still a lot of ice in the river, and frost is making the streets look like a war zone in Syrian towns. Pot hole Pete must've gone fishing. Progress pics and measuring details (to keep it square, etc.) tomorrow.
I swapped the driver's side doors, so I can align them from the back to the front, since the back edges are fixed, that's the best reference I have, to position the front driver's fender. I can align the hood correctly on the passenger fender alignment and get the correct gap. Well, its not as simple as I say above. Firstly I had to drill out the Zephyr doors for the Power options in mine, Windows and locks, all 4 doors, then I had to take my wagon doors apart and strip them of all the power motors and wiring. Good thing I had the right hole saws. Then remove my doors, remove the Zephyr doors, install the Zephyr doors on mine, and re-install my wagon doors on the Zephyr, since its gonna rain, and I'm using the Zephyr to keep my good parts, and those that I want to keep and restore. Its just a light rain overnight, finishing early in the AM, and more SUNSHINE! Yippee! But I learned something too. I'm working alone, and even though the doors are light enough, aligning them now can be a brute-force effort, but when I finish, they'll be primed and the base coats on. So I'll make up some kind of jig so as not to scratch the paint, either on the doors or the body. Combo of wheels, wooden base and steel arms that I can adjust and wiggle in place. The other thing is scraping the inner door panel when I re-install the power window motors and arms. I'll use Duct tape along the sharp edges. and on the motor/window gear assembly. Its a tight fit. And I got a good look at the Driver's side "A" Pillar. Its just dinged up, not bent, so I'll hit it from the inside and push it out, then straighten the outside sheet metal. And curiously, the windshield is cracked, but not broken up. Its still water-tight! Surprised me! But that confirms that the "A" pillar is structural OK. All-in-all, a good days results. Tomorrow, the other 2 doors too. That way I only have to remove woodgrain on the back end. I'll keep my doors, and store them in the basement workshop, at the end of the summer. The Zephyr doors and paint is really badly crazed, almost like fish scales, so I'll have to strip them and start from bare metal. That door alignment jig is gonna get a lot of use this summer. The nice thing about that enamel hardener/Japan Drier, is that the Tremclad dries in 2 hours, so I can get 3 basecoats on per day, and do the next 3 the next day, and keep driving the car. I need it for hauling the trailer to get building materials and taking the rest of the Zephyr to the junk yard after I strip out anything worthwhile. So the plan is at least 6 basecoats on the whole car, and 3 clear coats. Especially after getting a good look at the Zephyr paint - FUGLY!!! I'll take pics and post.