1972 Country Sedan Stalling Issue

Reach around the ignition switch, and feel for a warm wire!-
There are many ground straps - on GM, there's one from the battery to the core support, and two from the firewall to the motor - find and check them all!
I'd put a fire extinquisher [electrical] under the hood, and disconnect the battery, until found!!

 

Good call on checking the vacuum advance. When I was going though my '73 ford (460) a while back, I noticed the vacuum advance canister was no longer holding vacuum. The rubber had deteriorated away. If the rubber is deteriorated, not only will in not advance the timing when needed, but it will create a vacuum leak in the system that is not easy to detect. This could very well be your problem. I replaced mine with a new one and my car runs a lot better. Quicker throttle response and noticeably improved fuel economy.

If you have a little vacuum pump with a gauge (such as a mitivac) attach it to the hose and give it a few pumps and see if it holds vacuum. Or just do it the old fashion way: Suck on the hose with your mouth and see if it holds the vacuum.

Sorry I can't comment on your electrical problem, not my area of expertise. I hope you get that figured out.

 

Yeah, I have to check my distributor's vac advance. It currently is setup the way the previous owner left it. He has the short tube that comes off the advance folded over and tied so I'm not so sure it's not leaking. What I wonder is why is there a tube there if it's supposed to be blocked off anyway?

 

Well still no luck with the overcharging problem so it's going to the shop tomorrow. Hopefully they can figure it out.

 

Did you try adjusting the regulator? This is probably close to what you have.

http://www.mechanixtrix.com/Article/Article.aspx?ArticleId=294

 

I didn't adjust the regulator because the symptoms are the same with both the old regulator and the new one.

 

It sounds like a timing issue, a vacuum issue or a combo of both.
Often times the hoses dry rot and cause a slight leak which could be just enough of a problem.
Good luck

 

It is not leaking, because it isn't hooked up. It should be hooked up to a vacuum source, and that is contributing to your stalling.

Another factor, as others have said, is probably your carb. As stated in your original post the accelerator pump was leaking.

Again, as others have mentioned, a vacuum leak. Well, where was that tied off vacuum advance originally connected? If the previous owner didn't plug that source, it is leaking and causing all sorts of havoc.

All 3 of these cause hesitation. Adding them all together, it is no wonder it dies, as this trifecta of hesitation becomes a stall.

 

I know it should be hooked up, I just don't know where. I fixed the leaky carb and haven't had any issues with it.

 

I don't know for your particular car, but there are two ways of doing it. Timed source, which is on the carb body above the throttle plates, or straight manifold vacuum, on the manifold itself or on the carb just below the throttle plates.

Either will 'work'. one would just not be the way the manufacturer designed and tuned your engine for.

Here is a viddy that will give you some good ideas on vacuum routing and sources.