Broken Heater - Just in time for winter!

I don't think this is an automatic. The temperature lever is marked in degrees rather than color coding from blue to red. The coldest setting is 65 and the highest is 85. How would an automatic work?

 

So I just discovered that the A/C unit is in fact a Tempmatic. I'm sorry I didn't see it sooner. I don't know how much this changes things, but I thought I'd post some pictures, anyway. Hope this helps!

This is the view with the glove compartment removed:



Here is a shot of the temperature cable and control arm:



A close up of the control arm connection:



This is a very thin piece of wire that was broken (I have no idea where it comes from or what it's for):



Last one. The bottom of the lever arm where it appears to possibly be disconnected:

 

If the thin piece of wire is a vacuum hose it might be for a flapper motor.
If it's a wire it might be for a sensor.

 

That cable with the eyelet on end does not appear to be hooked up. Also in lower photo that lower bracket does not seem to be hooked up. Try to move these things by hand and see, feel, what happens.

 

I thought it was the automatic deal with those temp settings.
Still need a FSM or illustrations from the manual of the programmer so you know what you're looking at.
It does appear that some things aren't right.
Here's an illustration from the Auto Zone site, may help some.
The repair procedure for R & R is the link below.


http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...R-CONDITIONER/Programmer/_/P-0900c152800b1553

 

Lubriplate all the levers too! Just a dab, when you put it back in.

 

I second what CatmodelT says,looks like somthing isint connected.

 

Oddly enough I just replaced the heater core in my 82 Olds today, what a pain...

Anyway, there is a door just in front of the heatercore that changes the airflow from the heater core or evap core for the a/c. I didnt look at where the cable that moved it went to. But what I am talking about is in the engine bay 4 inches from where your water hoses attach to the heater core inside the housing.

And yes EVERYTHING breaks very easily. I cant take it back apart to get pics.

Its late but tommorow afternoon I will try to find out where that attaches inside. I will get pics.

On a side note....When I got my car inspected, they told me the core was leaking, said $300 to repair, About 3 hours into this project I was thinking how $300 wasnt to bad...

 

About the last post, I cant get pics of the door Im talking about because I sealed the top back on, BUT if I can follow the cable I will get pics of that.

The door is located sort of between the heater core and the a/c core.

Sorry about my confusing post, it sounded good in my head, then I reread it after it popped up on the thread.

Also if you go to pull the top off, its a pretty involved job with bolts and screws hidden under sealant and from the inside of the firewall.

 

I think the system needs a good flushing. If he's running the engine (hot) and the hoses are next to the engine (hot) he could be feeling the hot hoses from the engine and not necessarily hot water flow. If nothing else it wouldn't hurt to flush it anyway.. maybe I missed somewhere in here that the system was flushed? There just aren't that many things that can go wrong with this and if heat is flowing through the heater core he should at least be feeling something. I say flush the system!!!

 

Well did you ever get your heater repaired? I am rooting for you:banana: sucks to be without heat.

 

I looked but I can't see where that cable comes into the system. Also our systems are different looking at control unit. Mine isnt the auto type, it would be nice if it was. Have you gotten it fixed yet? I hope so.

 

My guess is with some of the others, that the cable and/or linkage is not quite right. That factory manual page that was posted would help me quite a bit if I had the car too. I've never seen one of these type of systems for real though. I've only seen the full manual systems, and the systems where the control panel has an electronic slider and sends a signal to an actuator. This system almost seems like a hybrid of the two.

 

I'm resurrecting this thread because my 88 LTD Country Squire has decided not to heat up. Granted, in Georgia it's usually not a big deal but by my standards, it's starting to get cold. I grew up without heat or air and now that I'm older, I enjoy my luxuries.

So - I'm going to check out a couple of the early suggestions in the thread and see where that gets me.

The heater blows hot for about 4 seconds then gets cold again, which makes me think it's going to be a heater core blockage issue - like it's getting some flow, just not enough to keep the air hot when it's a frigid 45 degrees outside

 

Just a quick update:

No leaks that could be seen, the return hose was noticeably cooler than the supply hose. I took them both off, used my hose to wash it out. Took my air compressor, hooked it up to an old bit of hose and hooked the hose up to the return line and blew it out real well. Bunch of goobers came out.

Put the hoses back on and all the heat is working again. Time for a nice long flush of the cooling system again now that I broke a bunch of trash loose it seems.