I am not all that keen on auto computers and sensors. I know basically what most of them do, but I have run into something somebody here might clarify for me. Yesterday, my Custom Cruiser would not start. I thought at first the fuel pump might have gone. I sprayed a little ether in the breather and she fired right up and ran fine. But...it kept on running????OK, what's going on here?? I had a similar problem with a van some time back and the culprit was the coolant sensor. I replaced it and same problem. I unfastened the harness to the TPS and the car fired right up. Not only that, but runs great without the TPS. The part is about $40, and I don't mind replacing it, but if it runs just as good without it, why bother? Is there any possibility of damaging the computer by driving without it being hooked up?
Without it your computer may be in limp-home mode. Sure it'll run, but it'll run without any feedback regarding how much foot you have in it. And that means fuel and timing inefficiency. I had a buddy with a similar vintage car and it wouldn't start. Turned out to be an O2 sensor. And while it was an easy fix, it left him stranded in the boonies needing a tow.
I am about ready to get rid of everything I have with a computer and go back to the older cars. I have been stuck more in the past 5 years by this electronic crap than in the last 40 previous years. The car runs beautifully without the TPS. Plenty of power, almost barks the rear tires on 1-2 shift, no knocking...I almost hate to fool with that.
Just ordered a TPS from Rock Auto. The Auto Zone part was $37.99 before my military discount and tax. Would end up being about $38.00 Rock Auto's was only $17.95, I think it was and less than $3 shipping. Pretty much a no-brainer.
Computers I always say computers are fine---- on my desk. At least when this thing quits I can go play with something else. As we speak, son's Ranger is similar. Starts, runs a few minutes, dies. Fuel in tank, fuel pump making noise. My old cars with carburators get better fuel mieage and I can beat on them with a wrench or screwdriver and they'll go forever.
I worked on a car one time (not computerized) and it would cut off for no apparent reason. Just so happened one time when it did, I noticed the little actuator rod on the EGR moved. Disconnected the EGR and no more problem. Anything electronic will give more problems than something mechanical. My wife had a nice '93 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham. The passkey security system left her stranded twice. We found a guy that bypassed the system and it seemed to work OK, but never trusted it again, so we sold it. She bought a '89 Fleetwood Brougham without all the electronics and with a carburetor, too boot. Never any problem with it. The coolant sensor went bad on my '94 Chevy van and stranded me in the middle of the road. If that happens again, I know how to fix it long enough to get it to the shop.
Disconnected Dodgeguy Yea, but you can only disconnect so much junk and sometimes it causes other problems. I realize these new cars last much longer. But at least we could get the old stuff running with a little luck... and sometimes with another shadetree mechanic's help. It's only going to get worse in the future. I can picture the hood having a special coded lock so only your friendly MOPAR mechanic can open it.
I will never own anything like that. I like my old stuff. Just bought an '84 GMC truck last week. It should serve me well for years to come.
Life Changes Minds Just about 17 years ago today, give or take a few, we began our seven trip move to NW Florida. Already there were changes. We were headed for central or lower Florida. Bought a Chevy van for the move. Took seven old cars and some junk. I love junk! My plan after getting settled in, which I don't think we have yet, was to not own anything newer than a 1957 Chevy. We were drivin the 1955 Chevy wagon and a few others and that van. Ended up buying a newer van then a new Dodge quadcab truck. Sold the 1957 Chevy. plans change. I hate the Dodge truck but it has done me well for five years so far. There are only about 10,000 red Dodge trucks in our town of 3000 people. I hate blending in!
Some years ago, I bought a '75 Dodge B200 van from my best buddy. I gave him $1250 for it. It had a 360 with a 727 tranny. I knew it had a burned valve, so I tore it down, had the valves done and put in a new timing chain/gears. I drove it 11 years and put another 100,000+ miles on it with never another problem. All I did was put gas in it (plenty of that), kept the oil changed, brakes, tires and a starter and alternator or two. I sold it for $1200. I would bet it is still running. That truck was tough as nails. Electronics is the weak link in today's vehicles. Plastic parts comes next.
Vans Never owned a van in my life--or cared to. But that one I bought to move with, dragging a flatbed trailer and cars, was just gonna be my moving van. 1987 Chevy with 120,000 miles on it in June 1994. It was in what I called junk row. Way in the back. Was lookin for a nice truck. Used trucks in Illinois then sold like they were gold plated. Only a few dollars cheaper than new. Wifie said "look at that nice van!" I thought she was crazy. Which she is! Made seven trips with that thing overloaded and slept in it half way each trip. That saved a lot of money. Drove that van seven more years, using it to camp weekends and drive back from Florida to Illinois many more times. Eighth year to go to Illinois it had 250,000 miles but running fine. I chickened out and sold it outright to a friend who drove it for many more years...sold it to another guy! It disappeared a few years ago. 1987 had throttlebody carb. Bought a used Dodge van but it only lasted one year. You don't really want to hear about it! It was low mileage but 360 and enterior kept falling apart. Found out we loved a van. But couldn't afford the new ones so bought a truck.
Are you getting a Check Engine or Service Engine Soon light? It is OBD-I so it is very easy (and cheap) to scan for codes in your computer. Even if you don't currently have a light I would still scan for stored codes to see if there was something going on. I think GM's of that era put the diagnostic plug under the dash on the driver's side. As long as you can jumper the correct two pins in the plug (that's up to you to search for) and turn the key on you can figure out what stored or active codes are in the computer.
