Roller Paint Job Diary

I would say use a hammer and dolly and once you get the shape you want get a stud welder dent repair kit like this one. to use on the inside of it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=8878

 

Better view of Tailgate inside bend

I'm adding this to show the bending a little better on the inside/hinge side edge:

 

I think what you've got there looks worse than it really is. I'm no sheetmetal guy but if the raised part goes down then the low parts should come up. The low parts are due to the stress created by the high part as seen on the outside. At this point I see no sharp crease except on the edge.

The body shops would have turned you away if it was real hard. I'd be willing to bet that your buddy JackFish has some experience or knows someone with experience.

 

That's what I was thinking. I've a torch so I can heat it up, but you can't get to the underside of either face of the frame. I was thinking I'd braise on some nails and pull up the outside, after getting the inside closer to original. I've got the window to test it with.

 

And I know nothing about bodywork except from what I have seen on TV.

I'M DOOOMMEEEDDDDD

 

He and I went and scouted out a couple, the second one was double the first at $450. Way out of my limit. I can get a replacement for $225 in 3 days. We missed the $30 one by 4 days, but then I hadn't done it yet (my oopsie).

 

Not doomed! Its a profession, according to these prices $75/hour. Almost getting to Lawyers fees. I might as well do it the best I can. If it comes out perfect, I'll be a star with the wife (and me too). If it comes out enough to get the window in and mount it, I'll have time to scour the junkyards outside of the city and get a decent price.

You just have to avoid fussy guys like me, who'll do most stuff alone when a buddy would have saved me the grief.

 

Like you I have to do it myself I sure can't afford to pay a shop to do it.

 

The more I look at that last picture you posted the more I think it's not insurmountable.

What if you have a buddy press that raises portion towards the front with his thumbs while you tap the portion that's bent up on the inside down. I'm thinking you can't make it worse. You may just get it to the point where a little sanding and a little "bondo" would smooth it right out. You'd never see the inside that you hammer on once it's remounted. A couple of hours of gently taping and bending all on the inside may bring the outside back in to a pretty smooth and unoticable condition. As long as you keep the needed bondo to less than 1/8" no one would ever know.....but you.

 

Digital Cameras in a Restoration - essential tool

It it wasn't for these pictures, I wouldn't have seen the possibility to repair it. Thanks to 80Cutlass and others to EMPHASIZE the point.

Ok, here's what I'm thinking.

1) the inside and outside panels are separate except at the edge.

2) there's no bodyfill to worry about.

A) straighten out the top side (90 degree bend to outside edge) first as in this picture:

http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4866&postcount=242

Then tap in the bottom edge enough to start the normal return of the window frame edge. (same picture above).

B) Braising some nails to the outside in the deeper dents and pulling them out and then pounding the high spot with a rubber mallet, alternating with pulling up on the nail-studs.

Last 2 pictures in this post:

http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4863&postcount=240

I won't start until tomorrow, so if there's anything wrong with my approach, help!!!!!!!

 

That's my general strategy too, but the inside lip bends needs to get straightened out first, I think, because that's the one that determines the distance between the hinges.

The frame is pretty rigid (when its natural state ), so taking the stress off there, would move it to the outside face and make it more likely to pop - I think - I am not a sheetmetal wiz, but it makes logical sense - using stress to pop it out. I won't get it all out, and I was thinking that I could screw in a few 3/16" screws and pry up, instead of braising anything. Those body pullers use a screw-thread attachment, so that might work.

I fixed a few dents on the inside panel before refinishing it, people closing the gate and stricking a box or hydraulic jack. Won't mention any names to save face.

If I can get the leading edge back to its proper curvature, I'll use the bigger screws to pull out the metal, instead of braising anf burning the paint on both sides.

 

That damage doesn't look too bad

 

My friend just sent me more pictures. The natural light was cloudy so the shading makes it look past redemption. Glad I got these last.

 

Bet you can do it.

 

Have to. All the other options are outlandish (another province), outpriced, or out-of-sight, for now!

More new skills, a lifetime of learning? I just want to drive it again! :2_thumbs_up_-_anima I guess that's all the motivation I need. I'll give 'er tomorrow.