Carb/Distributor Swap?

*drool*

 

Hi,

It depends on what you want to do with the car.
The carburetor and the ignition are electronically controlled. This ensures low emissions and a usable low fuel consumption.
If you just want to drive it on the road, keep everything as it is. Clean the original Quadrajet, replace the vacuum hoses, check the voltage of the TPS with the throttle closed and fully open.
The workshop book is very helpful. You should also follow this link: https://oldsjunction.classicoldsmobile.com/oldsfaq/ofe307.htm


Best regards
Munzel

 

There is no reason to dispose the CCC carb unless it isn't working correctly. Tuning them(for me anyways) was always a challenge but there is nothing inherently "wrong" with them. The secondary opening is vacuum controlled against a spring which can be adjusted, the computer has nothing to do with secondary throttle opening.
Disconnecting the distributor from the ECU will result in one static timing setting with no advance or retard as needed. Chev distributors won't work in your Olds.
If the car doesn't run right try correcting what you have first. The fellow who sold you the car and made those suggestions has a nice view of his colon.
If you are after improved performance/power just bin that wheezer 307 Olds and bolt in something larger, Buick, Olds, Pontiac will all drop right in and use your existing trans.

 

Oh, I'm going to have to use that from now on.

 

Yeah, it's a good one; my favorite (which I learned in Navy Boot camp) is, "They need a 'window' operation. It's to install a pane of glass in your stomach, so you can see where you're going."

 

My favorite one was when Clint Eastwood was playing a brassy role and said something similar to this:

Sorry to say this Joe. But if the lucky one to be wearing such a meat hat didn't first swallow a flashlight, the claim of him seeing anything wouldn't sound plausible

 

God thoes quotes are belly busting ...I think its time to pull the 307 anyway. Developed another problem yesterday on my way to work. Running down the highway like a sewing machine at 60mph when all of a sudden the engine light came on and it started to miss slightly.

On a cold morning start it fires right up with no engine light or miss for the first couple minutes them bam, light comes on and misses, not horrible but noticeable.
It's embarrassing at stop light's because it feels like its going to die so i have to power brake it a bit.

Its been like pulling teeth out of a gator trying to find a Oldsmobile 350 or 455 and i absolutely will not run a buick engine of any cui. (Im ready for the butt chewing) and very skeptical about a Pontiac engine.

I hate to think of tainting my wagon by dropping in that Vortec i have but if all else fails

 

Buick eights, after the Nailhead got put to rest, were nothing to laugh at. On the contrary, 455 Stages I, II are reknown for turning in respectable quarter mile times. They're also compactly built. A bog block Buick is about the size of a smallblock Chevy and weighs in at about the same. They also have the distributor at the front, making them easier to service

 

Only problem, in that scene, is when Highway tells Swede to fall out, and Swede says "Yessir." Non-commissioned officers do not like getting addressed as 'Sir;' they want you to use their rank or their rank and name. In this instance, if they really were Marines, after Swede said "Yessir," Highway would yelled at him to use his rank, and Swede would've repeated his acknowledgement as "Yes, Gunny," "Yes Gunny Highway," "Yes, Gunnery Sergeant," or "Yes, Gunnery Sergeant Highway." Not to mention all the men outright disobeying the lawful orders of a Noncom.

 

Yeah you are right about the 455 Buick engines. I was told to stay away from them because of the weak front oiling system though?
But even so, i only seen one 455 Buick engine for sale that needed a complete rebuild for $600.

Thought that was a bit high. I ran across a Pontiac 400 but again was told to stay clear of them because of weak heads/valve train.

 

My end game for my wagon is a dependable street sleeper, 300-350hp would be perfect. A decent set of gears and a better transmission.

 

Here are easy enough ways of solving these problems, once you find an engine at a reasonable price:

http://www.rowand.net/shop/tech/buickoilingimprovements.htm

 

Thanks for the link and the drilling tip. If all else fails i think that Vortec should snuggle in there nicely but thats last resort!

I'll probaly stop driving the wagon at first snow fall then pull the engine. Hopefully I'll run across something over the winter to build before spring hits.

I was web surfing and ran across a gal in her mid 40s that has a 87 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser.
She said it was almost impossible to find a 350/455 of any breed so she did the carburetor Vortec swap.

She did all the normal performance upgrades (Didn't touch the rotating assembly) with a 488/510 cam kit i believe it was, 410 gears and a old school 400 transmission with a 2200 stall converter. She was making 310hp to the rear tires so really not to bad for bolt ons.

She said it's a extremely dependable daily driver and fun to play with at the track 14.81@92mph. Not a Olds 442 but not bad for a battleship Lol.

 

Before you do a lot of work, first blink out the error that is stored in the control unit. Maybe it's just a small problem.
I don't know what it's like in your country, but in our country the exchange of the engine into a completely different one, together with the removal of aggregates to reduce emissions, results in the loss of vehicle registration.

 

Oh man that must suck! Sounds like Commi-Forna ... The state i live in we have no emissions testing or vehicle inspection laws.

We can't be forced to run catalytic converters, resonators ect...just good old headers, mufflers and pipes