Need opinions Home Steel Roofing

We're just getting the permit stuff done.

You should see what golf-ball and bigger hail does to roofs and cars and windows. July is our season. Steel survives better here too.

 

Yep, I believe the damage it does. Our season is November to March (this year April, May & June??)
I didn't realise you're in the construction industry. I'm here trying to finish off some floor plans for a client (when I'm not chatting that is), having a coffee and we've got the fire on again tonight (well morning 1.07am)
Did I see your R-ratings at 23?? for insulation.

 

R-33 in the walls, and we're doing R-54 in the roof. I made my own windows with 4 panes using my old glass and solid fir with variable spacers to cut the street noise and they theoretically give us R 1.8. A dualpane is R 1.1 and an Argon tripane is R 1.4.

I was in construction 25 years ago, but I still keep my hand in it.

 

Retired now?
As per your climate on another thread, these are unheard of R values (down here). I had to send away for a quote last week because a client had a higher than normal R value he wanted for his ceiling batts....he wanted R3.5 , the regulation for Southern Queensland is R1.5 for wall insulation, R2.5 for ceiling insulation and windows/glazing not required?

 

Retired from construction? Just our needs. I design and make up special wood parts, jigs and tooling for our seasonal bird and bathouse business.

The thing with more insulation is its a one-time cost that saves heat and AC bills forever. It will cost us about $6,000 from the basement to the roof (we've got 3 walls done on the main floor and 1/2 the basement walls done. My annual bills will come down from $2,400 to about $1,000. We're 100% electrical. I had the gas pulled after the first threat that they'd run short (Price hike gimmick).

That's all appliances in and coldweather plugin for the car, XMAS lights outside. (Summer hydro is about $25 per month for 4.5 months.)

 

Here the standard is R-22 in the walls and R-40 in the attic. 300 miles north and they're at R-30 in the walls and R-50 in the attic. I used the Roxul batts which have a higher rating and don't attract mould like the Pink stuff (fibreglass).

We may be using apples and oranges for R-ratings. RI-7 is R 20 (old metric)

 

I fully agree with insulation. That's some decent savings you're looking at. Australia stopped using oil for heating from the late 70's early 80's as it was just too expensive.
In the Southern states, most use natural gas as it is readily available with gas mains installed in the major cities. Queensland is a little behind with a lack of mains gas, so if you want gas you need big bottles. Otherwise we are the same all electric.
Problem though while electricty was affordable, the gov sold off the electricty to the private sector and introduced more competition. The result, (keep in mind the gov told the people the sale & competition WILL lead to cheaper prices) is, with another price hike announced for next month that we are paying 75% more for electricity and that's in 2.5 years!! Most of our electricity is produced by coal, which has dropped in price over that same period?
(There seems to be a very common theme amongst our various threads when government, money & fuel are discussed!!)

 

Yeah but! There are several ways to generate you're own electricity. I can't do this here. You can generate electricity from electrolyzing water which makes HH0 from H20. Cheap and compact. That can run a regular petrol generator more efficiently and supplement any other source like a roof generator (wind or solar). You can take your hot water tank off hydro and use a passive water heater, which superheats to 400C. That means that you could heat the house with radiant hotwater tubes in the floors. Then you can pull cool temps from the ground (geothermal) and cool the house down to 14C (55F) with roof turbines moving the fans.

Also, and why we aren't made more aware of it is beyond me, wind energy can easily be converted to water pumps or compressed air. That means you could run your fridge and freezers for nothing, or have a paint sprayer in the garage. Those are big hydro eaters. Search out Mechanical Windmills. Farmers have been using this for 200 years. Probably in your Ministry of Agriculture site.

 

There are several types of "standing seam" when it comes to roofing, a few are not common any more due to modernization of eqipment ( portable mechanical roll forming machines). Old school batton types roofs with wood bloking for example were popular in there time but all metal pieces had to be hand broken in 10' lengths. The portable roll formers....you can run a pannel 100' long if needed, but you better have 20 men to move it
The "single lock" is the most used in the industry now and normally refered to as "standing seam"( nobody calls it by it's proper name any more). The others are all refered to by there name and are still used from time to time...mostly HUGE $$$ restorations or just the plain old filthy rich with more $$ than they know what to do with...we see alot of that

The first pic shows the "standard" standing seam panel, the width of the finnished panel can be changed, order your coil of metal acordingly. The most common we run is a 20" finnished panel (letter A) with a 1.5" seam hight, the coil width is 24''. We have one panel machine that will run a 1'', 1.5'', and 2'' seam. A 12'' (letter A) panel IMO looks the best on a residential home. Our machines run 2 stiffening ribs through the panel, helps with oil canning.
2nd pic shows "some" differant styles of standing seam.

Bolt on pannel/corigated in third pic, sthis is only one style of many. Why on a home would you put a water proof piece of metal on and then drill a zillion holes in it to bolt it down??? They All Leak After Time, we do not install corigated on homes! Awesome stuff for walls though!

Desired R value for insul?..... In general they are close but where you live and climate determin that. Your building codes will be the best answer....whats good for you down under may not be good for us, and visa versa Example...you live in a desert, I live in a rain forrest.

Hail, branches, etc will damage...not much you can do about that when mother nature gets ticked. But yes they stay sound. WIND can be a killer if not properly fasend or enginered. Back in the day (97) we had a terible wind storm that kicked the crap out of us for a few days and caused millions in damage. A public swiming pool with a single slope standing seam metal roof was blown off. The slope was 8" rise in 12" so it was fiarly steep, the roof measured 250' x 80'...IT BLEW OFF IN 1 PIECE! The metal roof did not fail but the enginering did. The pool/roof was 15 years old and the roof deck was the finnished cieling for the pool, tounge and grove 2'' x 6''. On the roof there was 1.5" foam insulation and so the roof systm could be screwed down 2'' x 4''s were used as strapping. The strapping went along for the ride with the roof because stainless steel screws were used to hold the roof down. The 2'' x 4''s were nailed down with plain jane steel 3" framing spikes. All the years of moisture from the pool rusted the spikes to nothing. the high winds found a week spot in the rotted edge and peeled that baby off like peeling open a can of sardines.

 

In Florida the sun and nearby trees are terrible on a shingled roof. We had the plain silver GALVALUME screw on raised seam roof put on our triple wide mobile home.
My son and I watched so knew how to install a matching metal roof on the three car garage. After ten years it all still looked new.

Just pick a good metal roof manufacturer and have all length measurements. The only cutting will be trim and a few edge pieces and angles.
First we had to get five large Oak trees removed then it was a matter of days to get the house done. We also had a slanted roof front and rear enclosed porch. All one piece of metal from peak down all roofs. The panels can be bent slightly.
There was no added noise in heavy rains and even with many trees removed the home felt cooler. In very hot weather you may hear an occasional popping sound as the metal flexes. The screws have rubber washers so stay snug.

If we ever need a new roof here in central Illinois it will be metal over the old shingles.
From the street the silver roof looks white. Colored in Florida will fade unless you spend big bucks for commercial grade. From inside no one knows or cares what color the roof is. Like interior paneling, it's the cost of the colored trim that adds more to the cost than the actual panels.
I've seen trailers costing $25,000 with metal roofs and homes costing half million dollars with them. Bright gold is the best color, if you have deep pockets.

Most likely here in Illinois I'd go dark green metal of a good quality.

 

Holy cow, how did you dig up a 8 year old thread on metal roofing?

 

Another old thread brought back to life. Excellent advice right here.

 

Silverfox is always here to guide us, thru thickness, thin, rain, snow, sleet, and Spam.

 

Spam who said spam???? I don't know if Norm got the roof but it would be nice to know if he did or not.

 

.Those last comments were Spam. Still some good roofing ideas here. I think Norm forgot to make an escape hatch to get out of the attic.