1973 Buick and a 1973 Chevy Wagon at Demo Auction

Here ya go. Page 12 is where you find the pics. Fuel for the fire!!!
http://www.we-crash.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=29654

 

I have a solution to this problem.

1. Derby guys stop destroying vintage American Iron and start using and destroying Foreign cars with emphasis on Japanese/Korean cars, due to the sheer amount of them in wrecking yards and being cheaper units to buy.

2. Car collectors start paying the going rate for the parts that you need to restore your cars with and stop trying to steal the parts for nothing so you can lay claim to tight azz of the month.


Smaller cars mean more blood and carnage in derby shows = bigger crowds and larger payouts for the survivors and overall profitability for the promoter and everyone else. That should fix the appetite of the post 80's America fixation of violence, blood, gore, possible murder and destruction we seem to enjoy watching on the monthly payout of the Corporate privatized run Sat/Cable dumb down boob tube at home .


This move alone will save many old American classic's from their needless early demise.


Sounds like a win win to me.

 

Well OK, now we have some pics.............

Still gona be 6 of 1 or a 1/2 dozzen of the other

Yup, I hate seeing old iron scrapped/destroyed...... sadly what do ya do? The chev to me, I wouldn't want it, looks like a gold mine cost for repairs when it comes to rust IMO. The other, that one make me a bit sad, but we're back doun to....what was the interiours like, frames, etc, etc. How long do you hold onto a car that for what ever reason did not sell?.......

1..... hate to say it but if car guys would buy them first, there wouldn't be any for derbys..................


2..... I horded 67-68 Cougars, have a barn full of a zillion parts. Gave up trying to sell years ago. Everyone wants a good deal, but people want everything for nothing. If I had a nickel for every....."I can get one cheaper" (OK smart @zz, where???) and .... "well what are you going to do with the part if it doesn't sell?" (I'll keep it ya moron). "Well, you have 10 tail lites, give me a deal, I'll give you $5 for one"..... still have them all hanging on a wall

 

The Chevrolet clearly was toast with all that rust, but the Buick looked saveable.

 

Sorry for any confusion my post created as that was not directed to you personally, I didn't even know you ran cars in a derby. My complaint and the ones I call "grubby" are the ones who crash solid, rare cars and never give it a second thought AND/OR the ones that toss out the parts like they are nothing. I have dealt with those types before. I had about 6 "derby guys" sending me a tailgate switch for my wagon years ago, still waiting. I should have specified that and I have edited my post to reflect that. For those, I have no apologies for and do not agree with what they do. *I have no problem with them crashing up cars that are beyond saving, not at all. I often wonder though what the derby guys will do when all of the old American classics are gone?

Any old car I have ever owned, I have kept it as nice to not make it derby condition, but I am sure up north, that is not easy to do as it is for me and I understand that. Again, sorry for any confusion. Grubby hands are not that bad anyway.

 

Kingswood i did't really take your main comment to heart my friend. Remember i told ya i wish you lived closer so i could help you fix your car! What switch do you need? i have a couple of the rear gate switches (near the gate in the back) but i only have 1 switch set for the dash and i THINK it's olds or probably pontiac. The rear switch's will not work on my manual gate car i don't think they are for auto door/window

 

The car was not worth restoring, because he had a '76 NYB with a '78 NYBS VIN and title, so it was indeed a parts car that the guy thought he should get what a complete, running/driving car was worth. His feelings got hurt over the fact that that salient information was pointed out to him, and that the car would be worth more in parts rather than as a complete "kit" with sketchy numbers and paperwork. I told him before giant pissing contest took place that I really wanted the door panels and to shoot me a price, shipped, to my location. He never even did that! He decided to destroy those parts and others instead. That, to me, shows the guy as a jerk. You may have had good dealings with him, but I was thoroughly unimpressed with his actions. The only person he hurt was himself, as far as I am concerned. Ancient history. Life goes on.

 

Agreed, and what door panels do you need? I have "those" guys all around me and might be able to find some for you

 

I'm looking for the lower door panels (x4) for my '78 New Yorker Brougham Salon. They can be from any '74 through '78 New Yorker Brougham, or '74 - '75 Imperial. Prefer gray or silver, but can be any color, as I can dye them as needed. BUT, they can have absolutely NO holes, tears, or cracks in them!!! All four of mine are cracked, and when you try to repair these, it definitely looks like a try at a repair job, unfortunately.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks for the offer.

 

lol, I know, just wanted to be sure you knew I wasn't talking about you. lol.

Well I have about forgot about the switch for now since the car is not even running at this time. Its the switch on the outer part of the car. My car does not have the optional power gate, so its the switch with the winged knob around it. I think that is what is bad. I can "open" the gate window with the switch, but it will not close with the switch. I had to disconnect the cable and use a drill to turn the cable to get the window to close, so technically I cant even use my gate until the window issue is resolved. That is on my list to do after I get it running, if that ever happens. lol.

Here is a pic of my switch and the issue I had... this was taken right after I purchased the car in 2007. I had not got the window closed at this time and had covered it with plastic. I soon researched and figured out how to get it closed.



I was later able to close it without the switch working...

 

Kingswood i don't have any spares of those i don't think altho i did strip out a 73 at one time so i might i will look but thats what i have on my car now too. one thing i can tell you i have found when these don't work(usually the rear switch works better than the dash one after many yaers) what happened is the plug that goes TO the switch right there by the gate gets corroded/oxidized and they lose contact from moisture, if it's not the plug you still may have a contact prob IN the switch itself. You could take it out and clean it with some contact cleaner or wd-40 it that might help. there is usually a wire clip holding the electronic switch itself to the lock housing. not easy to get to