While waiting on the 67 VC to get painted I decided to change the filter on the trans. After taking the pan off I noticed that the filter just hangs from the suction pipe. There is a bolt that goes thru the filter into the valve body but it has a collar on it so it doesnt hold the filter tight. It cant move side to side but can go up and down about 3/8 of an inch. Any ideas on why its set up like this?:confused:
This car has been off the road since 1983, but the trans worked fine when I drove it on our dead end street. Should I use regular trans fluid and drive it awhile or go with the synthetic ?
Some people swear by Type F fluid even in these old GM transmissions. Synthetic seems like a waste of money if you're not rebuilding it. The 400 in my car started acting up after it sat for a few months when I did a head and intake swap. (I know it usually doesn't take months to swap heads, but it was out in the driveway, in the summer, it rained a lot, and the machine shop couldn't mill the intake correctly the first time.) Anyway it was shifting really late. It was probably the governor sticking. While I debated rebuilding, the shifting issues cleared up on their own. The 67 still had the switch pitch 400. Does your VC still have the switch pitch?
Yes it still has the original switch pitch.I have one in my 67 442 and have never been able to understand the adjustment you do on the throttle linkage to set the switch. I took it to an old time gm mechanic and he couldnt get it right either.It drives fine and shifts good so I just leave it as is . Tony
Part of the problem with adjusting the switch is worn engine mounts, at least in my case. Here's how you adjust the switch: Disconnect the carb rod, actuate the switch/accelerator to its WOT limit. This resets the internal switch mechanism. Allow it to come about half way back and reconnect the carb rod. You'll have to open the carb's throttle about half way to do this. Don't let the accelerator link return to its forward stop before reconnecting. I then use the threaded adjuster in the carb rod to set where the deactivates the transmission solenoid. With the ignition on (engine doesn't need to be running), use a test light on one of the terminals on the switch. One supplies the S-W solenoid and the other supplies the downshift solenoid. The S-W terminal is energized at idle and WOT. The downshift is on energized at WOT. I adjust the S-W to deactivate at just a little above idle, otherwise you may run into a situation in third gear where the RPM's come way up when your speed drops below 35-40. It may require a few iterations to get it in the sweet spot, especially if you move the adjuster a lot on the carb rod. I wired a couple of LED indicator lights to let me know when the solenoids are energized.
Thanks Vista for the info, I'll try that on the 442 this weekend and hopefully it will work for me. Tony
