Finally got around to doing some body work on my wagon. I'm not good at it at all, but want to keep at it to get better. Anyway there are some bubbles on the bottom rear fender that I want to fix, but upon inspection found that someone used a whole lot of sprayfoam inside the fender area from the rear tire to the back bumper. What's the best way to take care of this area? I mean, I don't know why it's there and I don't want go that deep into a quarter replacement. Cutting and welding, what's the risk of fire? Just want to know what options do I have? Thanks for any help!
Before any welding, you will have to get the muck out of there. It is flammable, and it emits toxic fumes when it burns. If your are doing it right, patch panels welded in are the way to go. You CAN, for a 20 foot job, just rivet new pieces on, and then bondo. You may also be able to use the chemical bonding agents/liquid welds.
Wow MikeT, thanks for the info man. I knew about that flammable and was prepared, didn't know about the toxic...well I guess I just really didn't think about that. The bad part is, I don't know how far it goes. Looks like a new plan. Thanks again MikeT.
If you have doubts about the toxic part, set a foam cup on fire and stick your face over it! Watch the black smoke and get a whiff of the fumes!
I don't think he had any doubts once he was informed. Sounds like he is greatful that someone told him!
I burned some of that old yellow foam from our old motorhome. It really puts out a black smoke. And years ago I accidentally smelled those styrofoam cups tossed into a camp fire. I'm still dizzy !
At least I have several good excuses! Breathing toxic fumes and over medicated will do it everytime. I can remember, before all of the warnings, breathing fibreglas, lead paint, other paints, burning leaves, foam, chewing on my playpen and painted wooden toys. etc. It's a wonder I can sit here and type. Yet, look at all the idiots who never had the privilage to do that. What's their excuse?
What made me aware of it was the local building code. Any of the foam insulation materials have to be covered by a fire resistant material like drywall because of the toxic gasses. The spray foams are also supposed to be installed while wearing a ventilator for the same reason. There is one really good reason for getting the foam out of there, too. It will eventually come lose from the metal, and you will get water from condensation in behind it, which will encourage the spread of the rust. Eventually the only option will be complete quarter replacement, not just patch panels. When putting on the patch panels, make sure, if it is a permanent repair, to butt weld. Lap welds will also provide a water trap and rust will weaken the join. Done well, a butt weld will be virtually invisible with no filler.
Spray Foam MikeT for once my being lazy paid off. Awhile back I made a rolled rear pan with hidden receiver hitch on my 1948 Chevy panel truck. I don't have all of those fancy brakes or things to form metal so made a quarter inch framwork with rod. Then welded bent sections to form all the curves and end caps. This left a large cavity under there. My plan was to spray a can or two of that foam over the backside to seal out rain and mud. Now I will eventually use cans of spray undercoating instead to seal it.
Take a body shop class at your local community college...You'll learn a lot and get great advice on your vehicle body issues. Marshall
Cat: What I use (when I have a car that is actually intact) is the spray on rubberized stone guard. It stays somewhat flexible and so doesn't chip. When I'm not painting over it, I tend to put on several coats so it is good and thick. One other trick I learned YEARS ago was about body trim. You may laugh but a 'little old lady' taught me this one (She was 94 at the time, working on her 61 Pontiac Laurtentian). I outline the trim in pencil, then very carefully remove all of it. Tape of the area, and spray it with the stone guard, prime and paint with spray bomb. Remove the tape and re-install the trim. It covers the stone guard so nobody know it is there, and it keeps the dissimilar metals out of contact, so no galvanic reactions take place. I did that to my first 79 'Bird, and there was never a single speck of rust under the trim. A bum mechanic killed that one, worse luck.
Yeah, I'm planning a quarter replacement now(HUGE job for me!)...not until fall though. Around here I don't know of any college courses in body shop. They have it for high schoolers, but don't think they have it for walk-in's. I think I'll just glass it for now so I can drive it for the summer, then try an tackle the replacement for the fall/winter.
