1976 Country Squire Performance

OK, I have spent some cash on this wagon to have some work done. Today I did a little bit of testing, to see how the wagon performs relative to spec (http://www.automobile-catalog.com/auta_details1.php)

The stock version of the 1976 Country Squire with the 460 and cruise-o-matic gets the following:
- fuel efficiency:
--- extra-urban 10-13 mpg
--- city 5-7 mpg
--- highway 9-12 mpg
--- combined 8.6 mpg

- acceleration
--- 0-60 11.3 seconds

I paid to have the following done:
- replace 2.25" dual exhaust with 2.5" H pipe minus cats.
- replace 600 Holley with 750 Edelbock
- replace stock intake manifold with Edelbrock Performer Intake
- replace stock cylinder heads with D0VE heads
- replace stock cam with custom ground torque cam
- install roller rocker
- hardened pushrods
- dished pistons
- overbored engine 0.03" to turn the 460 into a 466.

After the work was done this is what i got:
- Fuel Efficiency
--- Highway 11.4 MPG
- Acceleration
--- 0-60 10.75secs

The stock Horsepower and Torque for the 76 Squire is roughly 200HP and 350 ft-lb of torque.

Per the attached Ford 460 Horsepower chart:
http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=119213

I should be in the 450HP range.

So, the question is: what do i have to do to break a 9 second 0-60mph time? I am thinking about getting the engine inspected by someone other than my mechanic and having it dyno tested.

I would think that doubling the HP of the engine ought to do something more than decrease the 0-60mph by 0.5 secs.

Am i getting raped by my mechanic?

 

I would think a family wagon would have a numerically low gear ratio in the rear axle. Nice for cruising at low rpms and for being as fuel efficient it could be with what it has.

If all you're concerned about is 0-60 times, then changing the rear axle gearing to a numerically higher ratio should get you 0-60 noticeably quicker. Don't know by how much. With your everyday driving you will notice the engine running faster RPMs and using more gas than it already does.

 

Dyno day might cost ya $150-200 but it'll be worth it for a few passes.

You might find your timing is way off.

You might find the 750 Edelbrock to be poorly jetted.

You might find your throttle cable isn't opening it up all the way.

I'm betting you're at more like 300-350hp with an RV torque cam and the other mods you listed. I also bet your first run on the dyno if you change nothing else will be around 250-275hp. Something isn't quite right and I'm betting it's something not related to the parts you chose for the build.

 

another piece of info (or two):
1) i did the tests because in the next two weeks my new transmission will be ready. Instead of a C6 (2.46:1.46:1 gears) with a 3.00 in the rear -- the new transmission will be AOD with wider planetary gears (2.85:1.55:1:0.7) and a 3.25 gear in the rear.
2) after examining the car later the same afternoon, i discovered that one of the plugs had come loose off of the distributor. I may have been doing these tests running on 7 cylinders instead of 8...that would certainly explain a lot...

My mechanic has recommended against the Edelbrock and is pushing for a Holley. He says he is more comfortable tuning them properly and that the 'hard' starts i experience are typical of 'Brocks.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

You'll also notice in those 460 performance recipes that nearly all of them call for a 750 Holley...

 

i guess i didnt think too much about the difference between a 750 holley and a 750 'brock. 750CFM = 750CFM -- i thought that holley was only specified because it is the 'traditional' Ford carb.

I am looking at getting a holley -- i saw one with two fuel lines, is that what is called a "double-pumper"? If so what is the advantage? isolated fuel delivery to the primary and secondary barrels?

 

You asked,, so Imma gonna tell you...
#1 Dished piston (huh??)
Ultimately you would like a 9 or 9½ to 1 compression..
RV torque cam.. UGH! Something around a .460 lift performance cam would ( IMO) work better..
The 'Brocks will work well.. Very well in fact.. I have several and zero problems...
One or two pumps,, turn key,, RUN.... Even cold... As to using a double pumper carb.. Why? You want worse
milage and worse performance...? A vaccum secondary carb will know when to open and mater the proper
amount of fuel when loaded.. A double pumper will just squirt gas needed or not..

Next,, the AOD.. That will KILL the milage... Why you ask.. In theory it should work..
In reality it will not... Ask me how I know.. However if you change the ignition and induction (FI) to run from module (electronic) then the AOD will work excellent...
Another thing if you want to use the AOD would be to increase rear end ration from what it is currently to something in the 3.5-1 ratio ... By leaving the current ratio will
overload the car and make you use MORE gas especially in town as motor will have to pull harder,as in push further on throttle to make it go.....

 

I, too, would go with a 750 Holley, jetted 70 primary and 90 secondary. Dual feed not needed!
Holley fuel pump will work just great.
Scrap your 'pollution' distributor, and get an accel - you want the timing 'all in' at 2500 RPM!
I'd go with the 3:50 rear gear - get that poundage moving with the new AOD - X first gear = 9.975 outa the gates!
Still gives you 2.45 final drive!
I had a '65 396 wagon that ran low 12's with 3:55's - 15mpg city - 20+ hwgy with a T-400! [10.5 compression + premium gas though!]

 

Dished pistons are to keep the compression below 10.5:1.
How do you know about the AOD -- you told me to ask?
i am increasing the rear ratio from 3 to 3.25.

 

Ooops - forgot - get the highest stall converter that'll retain lock-up, as that'll help move the poundage!
3:25 + 3:50 ring and pinions are the same price!

 

1,800 RPM or 2,500RPM on the stall converter?

 

Mine was 2500+, but retain the lock-up feature.

 

I have changed my order to go with a 3.5 rear instead of a 3.25.

Need to see if i can still get the 2500rpm stall with lockup...

any other advice welcomed.

 

Buy shares in Exxon? The dividends will offset what you spend in fuel...

 

i drive less than 2000 miles per year in that vehicle. That's 200 gallons of fuel per year. Even at $5/gallon, that's only $1,000 per year operating expense to experience in the American Dream.

I would rather drive 2,000 miles in my wagon than 6,000 miles in a Corolla. Multiply that up as far as you want -- 100,000 miles in my wagon over 300,000 miles in an Economy car.

Besides, how can you even argue fuel economy on a stationwagon forum? Leave that to the goathair-socks-wearing-tree-hugging-wallstreet-occupying-granola-eating-soy-latte-frappucino-swilling Prius driver.

Nothing better than pulling up next to Prius, rolling down my window and telling the sheep behind the wheel that I'm about to cancel out 3-weeks of his driving before I torch the tires on my piece of Americana.

Now, that we've gotten the 'fuel' thing out of the way let's think about the practicality of putting a sway bar in Grrretchen...