What a long story. I'll try to condense it. About a year ago the car started to misfire at speed. I discovered that if I disabled the EGR valve it ran fine. As I found out later this was just a distractor. I disassembled the whole system to check for blockages etc. Found the EGR valve to be bad. Replaced it. It got worse. Found that the carb float was cracked and the car was running rich. This after I failed the emissions test. High HC at idle. Everything else was good. When I replaced the float I had it a bit too high. So, I took out the fill valve and the threads came out with it. Replaced the carb. Same same. Still running bad except now it stalled at idle and misfired badly at high speed and actually stalled at steady speed below 40 mph. I troubleshot some more. Found the ignition module had failed. Replace it with no change in symptoms. Just on a chance because it was inexpensive I changed the fuel pump. Same. Opened up the gas tank to check the filter screen. Good. Scratched my head and did days of internet investigation. Nothing. Read voltages on the coil and ignition system. All good. Took out distributor and checked and inspected. All good. Ohm'd all the ingnition secondary wires and spark plug wires. All good. Found big crack in PCV hose at carb base. Replaced it and the PCV. Runs better. But still not right. By accident as there's nothing in my books that when I disconnect the purge control valve from the PCV and plug the PCV hose, that it runs like a top! Ah ha! This is the vacuum part that looks like the space ship Enterprise. So I take the car to work this morning and it runs great.....until I leave for lunch. Stalling and very hard to start. Cranking very slow. Now I think the alternator is on the fritz. I haven't done the voltage checks yet. Which also gives me a clue as to why I only have 4 volts to the carb choke heater. I should have been suspicious when my left turn signal was blinking slow and my dash lights were dimmer than usual. This is getting rediculous. I've been fiddling with this since September 28th. I have until Nov 30th when my registration extension expires. AAARRRRGGGG!!!! This car has me I knew it was bad luck to buy new tires in August BEFORE the smog check was due....
Check the regulator at one of the parts stores. Mine did that. After 6 starts on the battery, it wouldn't start. The alternator replacement is expensive ($179 up here). Get the regulator for over 90 amp alternators (100 to 200 amp) It works on the 70 and 90 amp units, but costs a bit more ($20 vs $33). Brighter lights, AC motor, wiper speed, etc. And starts like a champ.
I did a quick voltage check yesterday. Engine off: 11.68v Engine on: 11.68v I think there could be a problem.
Well, when all else fails, drop down to a JY and get a 200 AMP alternator from an F-250 truck, Mercury or Lincoln, and take the regulator.
The voltage problem was the green with red stripe wire at the voltage regulator. It had backed out of the connecter. Charging problem solved.
Same as mine too, when I changed to the better regulator. The other regulator was toast, but I wondered if having that wire loosely off like that, wrecked it.
